I found a water proofing membrane at the building supply that's used for basements or bathrooms. It's the same kind of thing like dynamat. but for a fraction of the cost. I priced it out to do the whole interior, doors, floor,with dynamat would be over $1000 cdn. the building supply stuff was just over $130. for the same sq. feet. The comparison between the two, dynamat was 1.6mm thick and the other was 1.5mm other than that, same stuff. I have since done all the doors , outer skin of the door and the inside of the door completly covered with the cheaper stuff. just not the floor yet. Took a 14hr road trip for holidays the other day and have noticed a difference. you can defenitly hear the noise coming from under the truck now i.e. tires, exhaust. before at about 110km/hr there was a anouning drone form the exhaust it has mellowed out some now. the money that you save you can do the floor twice. i will let you guys know when i do the floor what happens. sorry for the long post

 

nice, keep us posted.

 

What's the name of the building waterproofing you have used? Can you buy it in relatively small quantity? Thanks.
Alan

 

thanks for the heads up.. I'd like do a layer or two on my floorboards and up the firewall to kill the trans and clutch noise...

 

Only thing with alternative sound deading materials as such is the heat rating on the adhesives. Some are not going to hold up under the heat the body panels will see on a vehicle, on the floor that shouldnt be and issue though...

 

On my 99 I used some foil bubble stuff from Home Depot, worked well, made a big difference, spent about $100 to do the door panels and back wall of the cab.

 

Im in the process of doing the same thing right now. I am using a butyl based sealing tape from Menards. Its called protecto seal. It was $14.00 for a roll 12" x 30'.
I then used a garage door foil bubble insulation, and used spray adhesive to stick that on over the protecto seal.
In the hollow spaces, in the back of the ex. cab, I am using batts of fiberglass insulation that I put in a heavy plastic garbage bag and sealed the bag with spray adhesive and then I lightly stuffed them in there and sprayed adhesive on the exterior metal so they wont sag.
I am taking the headliner out this week and I will see what I can do with that. I read on a D-max forum (yeah, I know I was googling sound deadening) that a guy dropped his headliner and between the headliner and the roof was about a 2" gap, so he used fiberglass insulation and sprayed it to the headliner and stuck the insulation to it, and then put the headliner back in.
He (guy on D-max forum) took decibel readings before and after and his truck dropped 19db, before and after. He used the same materials I am using.
I also am using what we Northern people call water and Ice barrier on the floor. It looks just like rooking felt, only its rubber and sticky on one side. Its only good for horizontal things, like the floor. I tried it on the back wall and it came off a couple of days later. The butyl based stuff sticks and can be formed alot better.
I also have have new carpeting with 40oz. insulation attached to it. And a new headliner.

 

if you can it get your hands on cork it works great I had a roll left over from work it was 3/16'' thick I put it on the floor and back wall and it took care of all my noise issues..

 

I like the cork idea!!
You can ge it at hobby and fabric stores.