You sure?
There websit says they have them in stock.
http://www.stylinmotors.com/dodge.html
These boots are very high quality! When I bought my truck gthe PO had a PDR boot on the passenger side intercooler supply. The Stylinmotors one are much thicker.

 

Not sure if they still make them or not but I got in on a group buy for SPA silicone hoses a few years ago. They have been great. Quite thick made the stockers look like they were made out of tissue paper.

http://www.spatechnique.com/product_...liconehose.asp

 

I bought PDR boots. They weren't that hard to put on. Start at the intercooler on both sides. Lots of cheap hairspray and turn them with a small oil filter wrench on the straight tubes to line them up.

 

Interesting solution to "many turns" on the spring clamps!
Maybe would not have to reattach 'blown' boot if you used the springs. I don't believe they are just for looks?
Not being a wise guy.... just believe they serve a purpose.

I have never blown a boot (65 psi), since going to PDR's.... but they do loosen up and the boot material under the clamp does compress. I check for tightness every two or so months and always, before going to the track, because I hate the reattaching process as much as you ..... not to mention the potential heart attack when one of those suckers lets loose.
When I check mine, they always seem to take another turn or two, even after 2 yrs. Obviously, there are ways around this 'loosening" but I like the idea of visually checking things out occasionally.

RJ

 

It is not just the thickness of the silicone that makes a house tough,more important at high boost #s is the stength of the reinforcing cords and it's weave design.Mr Bob is making some race specials with even more strength than his origionals that I have never seen blow.

Bob

 

Spring clamps used to be recommended, based just on the fact that they came with much better nuts. The longer thread engagement of the nuts allowed you to torque the clamps much higher before the threads stripped. Most of the ss clamps that come with current kits don't have that problem.

I use the source automotive boots and clamps. I have run them over 72psi, and normally race with them at 62psi.

One thing to remember is that if you blow a boot, you will most likely end up with oil in the compressor of the turbo, and all (or most) of the tubes. Don't forget the intercooler either. A lot of people will blow a boot, and then put new boots on without cleaning out the oil. The new boots will get oil on them, and then slip off.

As far as the reason for the oil... The sleave bearings are designed to have the compressor push back against the bearing. When the boot blows the turbo is at a high rpm, and no pressure. I have seen a couple of HX40's break shafts when boots blew.

My advice... By a good set of boots, clean out the intake system, and retorque the clamps during normal maintance.

Paul

 

SOMETHING is wrong here. I just looked at their website and my quote is on it with their reply saying that what I said is not true. I would have NEVER made this up under any circumstances. Stylinmotors was my first choice due to price and the recommendations of other members. I went with PDR. All I can say is that I was given bad information from them when I called them a few months ago. Sorry for any confusion or hassles that I may have caused. I have called them and left a message, I will be curious to hear back from them.

 

I know when I ordered mine it took them awhile to get them to me. They were reworking them to hold more boost.
Its not a big deal Baja. Were all friends on here (I think).

 

Baja,
I am in no shape, way or form working or related to stylinmotors.
After reading your last post I went to their website, and seen the quote from earlier. I dont think that is very nice at all.

 

I checked & my boots are PDR, very nice strong boots.

 

Thanks for the support.
Stylinmotors did call back and I explained what had happened to me. The rep, a nice guy, sort of backpedaled a bit and tried to say there may have been confusion about my year of truck and that is why things did not work out. No worries, I am not angry or anything, just a bit confused. Nothing new. They also explained to me that sometimes a competitor will post stuff like that on a forum to drive business away, a rather underhanded move. I have not checked, but he said that they took down my post from the website. Time to move on! Merry Christmas to all!

 

Rip has a good price on the boots till the end of the month.

Plus they are black too, vs the blue that doesn't match anything on my truck.

 

Black is much better than "Ford Blue"

 

ive had the pdr boots for a little over a year now. never came off. and they went on easy. they are black so they dont look like they belong on a honda. for the straight boots, and my twins i used tanker hose. i was going to get the bd kit but i heard of way to many of the splitting. they have held up to 65 for me so far with no problems.

 

The best boots are made of silicone with SS anti-ballooning rings; high-temp (500*F) boots will provide an additional ~100*F overhead in the thermal envelope - comes in handy for twins.

The best boot clamps are SS constant-torque T-bolts; they won't rust, have plenty of thread engagement & a stout capture head for plenty of clamping force, and the spring maintains the initial installed-torque tension during the engine's thermal cycles... the fact that silicone shrinks as it's temperature rises is often overlooked or unknown.

Of course, if the boot nipples (am I allowed to say that? ) don't have a bead roll on the end, it's something of an uphill battle to avoid blow-off at higher boost pressures.
Again - de rigueur for twins!