dma251

I have a simple question- I have always assumed it is the actual fuelplate that is slid forward and the housing is bolted back on in a somewhat central position. I was re-reading through my TST instructions and they say that the plate should be installed centrally with the use of their plastic guide-plate, and the HOUSING should be pushed forward.<br><br>It seems like it makes more sense to me to push the plate forward, and the housing backward (to rear of motor) for mazimum rack travel. <br><br>so which is it for MAXIMUM travel?<br><br>-plate back/housing forward?<br><br>-plate forward/housing forward?<br><br>-plate forward/housing back?<br><br>Sorry for such a simple question....<br>

dodgeman01

Pushing the plate forward gives you more power than the plate is rated for. When you move the housing that moves the rackstop which gives you more pre-boost fuel. But do like I did, Remove the rack stop.<br>&quot;I got it right Mark you should be proud&quot; <br>DM01

Got Smoke?

[quote author=dodgeman01 link=board=7;threadid=14366;start=0#135008 date=1052144434]<br>Pushing the plate forward gives you more power than the plate is rated for. When you move the housing that moves the rackstop which gives you more pre-boost fuel. But do like I did, Remove the rack stop.<br>&quot;I got it right Mark you should be proud&quot; <br>DM01<br>[/quote]<br><br>Ahhhh...... you learn young grasshopper! <br><br><br>......side note..... don't remove the rackstop unless you want massive amounts of smoke! 8) ;D <br><br>For maximum rack travel while retaining the rackstop slide both PLATE &amp; AFC HOUSING forward. However be prepared to keep and eye on the EGT guage AND boost!

nivram

so-- i have slid my plate forward .080&quot; from full forward, and the cover full forward, normal (to me) EGT 400* @65MPH towing 500* 600* @65 moderate smoke on start up, puff at shift, seems to go , for me any way, should i do any other adjustments?<br><br>Marv.

BigBlue

Push the plate all the way forward and up the boost. ;D

SjLingenfelter

How hard is it to remove the rackstop? Will it give me bad Milege?

dodgeman01

[quote author=SuperiorDiesel03 link=board=7;threadid=14366;start=0#135375 date=1052235798]
How hard is it to remove the rackstop? Will it give me bad Milege?
[/quote]
It is easy. after you get the AFC housing off the truck turn it upside down and look at the end of the housing where there is only one bolt that holds a shaft that goes into the AFC and connects to the rack stop. Take out that bolt and just pull the shaft out. The Rackstop will fall out so watch it.
If your not into it all the time then it will not hurt your MPG.
DM01

CurtisvilleCummins

What do you think the power numbers are just by sliding the plate forward? hp? ftlb? thanks alot

dodgeman01

[quote author=CurtisvilleCummins link=board=7;threadid=14366;start=0#135488 date=1052251371]<br>What do you think the power numbers are just by sliding the plate forward? hp? ftlb? thanks alot<br>[/quote]<br>I gave heard like 40-50hp but I have no dyno charts to back that up. Just what I heard. When I did mine I figue maube 35-40hp<br>DM01

Cummnzpowr

ahh youngsters...i made 405 with zero plate full forward .....then 383 full back..housing in stock location, so ..it really doesn't matter,i'd say stock location is pretty close to best option, with managable EGT's

Got Smoke?

[quote author=Cummnzpowr link=board=7;threadid=14366;start=0#135541 date=1052261495]
ahh youngsters...i made 405 with zero plate full forward .....then 383 full back..housing in stock location, so ..it really doesn't matter,i'd say stock location is pretty close to best option, with managable EGT's
[/quote]

Greg.....YOU and the words managable EGT's shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence!

Don't make me bring up the story of the old grey truck! ;D

BigBlue

Do tell. PLEEEEASE!!!!

Got Smoke?

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=7;threadid=14366;start=0#135644 date=1052277681]<br>Do tell. PLEEEEASE!!!! <br>[/quote]<br><br>Ok Blue you twisted my arm! <br><br>Greg entered a burnout contest with his old CTD a 2wd Auto 2500..not sure about what specific parts he had but I know he had a zero plate, BIG injectors, and D-valves......<br><br>long story short the turbo and manifold were glowing red when he stopped it, it wouldn't restart, and now he's driving a Green 4x4 2500 ;D

BigBlue

I saw a TT Porsche turn his headers and turbos WHITE on the dyno. But his started back up.

Cummnzpowr

It was the laser cut delivery valves fault, those things REALLY got the temps hot in a hurry... : major carnage,6 cracks on the head right past the manifold, top of motor was covered with soot, and i drove it home ...scored piston walls and new head later [undecided]