Shocks for 2WD
Shocks for 2WD
I've seen lots of recommendations for Bilstein and Rancho shocks for the 4x4 guys, but what's a good shock for a highway-bound 2WD? Every since I switched to Michelin XPS tires (heavy and hard) the stock front shocks can't handle it. Looking for a firm but not harsh ride.
Bilsteins in my truck and they work great. Firm, does a nice job of keeping it steady when going over dips, bumps, etc. Very stable, does just as well when towing my 5th wheel. No dip or dive. I think I paid 50 bucks each at Auto zone.
Very happy with them. No, it's no sports car, but for a 3/4 ton truck, I can't ask for much better. I think it takes turns better then my old 1/2 ton, and my buddies new 1/2 ton. You won't be sorry. Good luck, Kevin
Very happy with them. No, it's no sports car, but for a 3/4 ton truck, I can't ask for much better. I think it takes turns better then my old 1/2 ton, and my buddies new 1/2 ton. You won't be sorry. Good luck, Kevin
The Bilstein 5100s are the shock you seek, no doubt. Pretty much ALL other shocks are made by Gabriel, no matter whose name and colors are on the box.
The trick with the 5100s is that you want the proper valving! There are a couple variants that fit our trucks. Some are standard length, some are 2" longer. Some are standard valving, some have HD valving.
I happen to have the 2" longer variants (leveling kit up front) w/ HD valving. If I had a plow or winhch bumper on the front, the shocks would be PERFECT. But I don't, and the valving is a little too stiff for a smooth HWY ride empty.
But when you're carrying a load, that stiffer valving is a godsend. Very good stability. It's also great off-road, as it's VERY difficult for me to bottom the front or rear over the same terrain that would bottom the front end HARD.
The nice thing (and unique thing) about the Bilsteins is the digressive valving. If you hit a bump HARD, the shock "knows" and will let the axle move to absorb the impact. Over smaller, gradual stuff, the damping is tighter, giving you better control and sway resistance.
If I were you, I'd go with the 5100s, hands down. Don't get the HD valving unless you are towing a lot or don't mind a stiffer ride. The standard valving will yield a much better hwy ride empty and at light loads.
That said, I have the HD valving, and I don't find the ride to be that rough at all as long as the tires are aired down to spec for empty cruising. With the stock 265s, that means 45/40 psi F/R. Add 10 pounds to that and the empty ride gets noticeable rougher. Add 20 pounds to those numbers, and you'll be seeing the chiropractor.
Since you won't air up unless you are towing, maybe the HD valving is what you want after all? I know that on my truck it made a HUGE difference in the safety. With the front all stock, I could induce a HORRIBLE Death Wobble over this one expansion joint near me on I-25.
After the D25/Bilstein/DT track bar install, DW was gone and has never come back.
Since you have a 2wd, no need for track bar or spring changes. THe Bilsteins alone will make a nice improvement.
If you don't go Bilstein, don't bother changing shocks. Anything else is practically like not having shocks anyway!
Justin
EDIT: For more info on the Bilstein shocks and the digressive valving, call Kent Kroeker at KORE Performance suspension (formerly T-rex) and he will educate you like he did me
The trick with the 5100s is that you want the proper valving! There are a couple variants that fit our trucks. Some are standard length, some are 2" longer. Some are standard valving, some have HD valving.
I happen to have the 2" longer variants (leveling kit up front) w/ HD valving. If I had a plow or winhch bumper on the front, the shocks would be PERFECT. But I don't, and the valving is a little too stiff for a smooth HWY ride empty.
But when you're carrying a load, that stiffer valving is a godsend. Very good stability. It's also great off-road, as it's VERY difficult for me to bottom the front or rear over the same terrain that would bottom the front end HARD.
The nice thing (and unique thing) about the Bilsteins is the digressive valving. If you hit a bump HARD, the shock "knows" and will let the axle move to absorb the impact. Over smaller, gradual stuff, the damping is tighter, giving you better control and sway resistance.
If I were you, I'd go with the 5100s, hands down. Don't get the HD valving unless you are towing a lot or don't mind a stiffer ride. The standard valving will yield a much better hwy ride empty and at light loads.
That said, I have the HD valving, and I don't find the ride to be that rough at all as long as the tires are aired down to spec for empty cruising. With the stock 265s, that means 45/40 psi F/R. Add 10 pounds to that and the empty ride gets noticeable rougher. Add 20 pounds to those numbers, and you'll be seeing the chiropractor.
Since you won't air up unless you are towing, maybe the HD valving is what you want after all? I know that on my truck it made a HUGE difference in the safety. With the front all stock, I could induce a HORRIBLE Death Wobble over this one expansion joint near me on I-25.
After the D25/Bilstein/DT track bar install, DW was gone and has never come back.
Since you have a 2wd, no need for track bar or spring changes. THe Bilsteins alone will make a nice improvement.
If you don't go Bilstein, don't bother changing shocks. Anything else is practically like not having shocks anyway!
Justin
EDIT: For more info on the Bilstein shocks and the digressive valving, call Kent Kroeker at KORE Performance suspension (formerly T-rex) and he will educate you like he did me
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