Hello guys hope y'all had a good christmas. Well on to the question at hand. I got a set of those back up lights that go on your reciver hitch and was currios i took the rear light assembly out to see were i could clip the little quick splice that they give you in the stuff from the light company. Well on the bulb for the reverse lights there is a major a minor and a ground. I know what the ground is but wich of the other two would I attatch the quick splice to so it would work? i was leaning towards the major but i dont know. Thanks for the time on this long one sorry

 

Xmas was great.....

Not sure what you mean by major and minor but just take a test light and probe the wire while your reverse lights are on....or pull your tailight assy and find out which colour wire is your reverse light bulb and splice into it. Do you have a test light?

 

yes i have a test light but there are three wires goin to the bulb that is the reverse light one says major one says minor and the ground says grnd. its printed on the female end of the reverse light bulb plugs into.

 

I believe one is for standard backup light power hookup.
The other is for a switched backup light power, so you can have them on all the time
(well, not all the time, but on when you want them on, like when hooking up a trailer, setting up a tent, and whatnot)

Not sure which is which, but minor sounds like standard backup, and major for the switched (which would be on longer than the standard reverse light)


phox

 

Ok ill go with the minor and a really good ground and see what become of it worst off i take the quick splice off and get a new one and go with the major side and tape both wires were there is a cut just for precaution. Iam happy i got a set of these i hate the factory back up lights on dodges just as well not have any LOL

 

I took a Pep Boys relay and powered if from the normal back up light wire and powered the back up lights off the 12 volt feed to the hitch. This way, you get maximum power to the lights and the light weight back up light circuit is not overloaded and blowing fuses. All in all, it was about four feet of wire for the whole project. Soldered and shrink wrapped everything to eliminate future problems.

 

I'm with Joel on the "isolate the circuit" idea - the stock wiring is barely adequate at best for the stock backup lights.

Also, do yourself a favor and DO NOT USE SCOTCHLOCKS anywhere that there is the potential for corrosion - i.e., if it ain't inside the cab or going to be epoxy potted, don't use them. Scotchlocks are notorious for allowing the copper wires to wick up anything that happens to get on them, resulting in corrosion problems down the road. I reckon if you live in Arizona it might not be a problem but everywhere else it will eventually bite you.

Use a solder joint and seal the splice with something (I use tape then cover the tape with 3M underground splice sealer) because under the rear of our trucks is not the best environment for bare wire.

 

Those stupid scotchloks are the reason I almost wrecked a loaded trailer and ended up completely rewiring my GN six months after I got it. Now, everything is soldered, shrinkwrapped, and taped and have no problems for over two years now.

 

I'm with Dieseldude, use a relay and the heavier wire to power your lights. The wire sizing on Dodges is marginal at best, much more draw and the wires could melt.
I've had good results with higher wattage replacement bulbs for the stock lamps. JC Whitney carries them.

 

Yup I did exactly what the other dieseldude did and it works a-OK!! I used regular fog lights so it is very bright when backing up, plus theres no load on the reverse fuse.

 

Same here. I bought those 55 Fog (white color) lights and attached them underneath to the frame. then sat in the seat and had my brother adjust them where I wanted them. Much better then stock for sure. But now in plowing weather, they would get covered due to backing into snow banks or just get covered from driving down the road. I now have another set above my cap located underneath my cap's wing. Nice and protected from snowfall so I don't need to wipe them down all the time and still being the 55 watt Fog (white again) lights, lights up the back super. Can see for a LONG way now. Ran seperate wires to the battery with fuses and relays so it doesn't drain everything.

 

The way I found the proper wire was to remove the bulb from the tail light. Then remove the bulb. Put the truck in reverse (not running of course) and find the hot wire. This is the wire I tapped. The reason for this is, if the light burns out, my backup lights still work.

That wire became the trigger wire for my relay. Ran wire from the PDC to the back of the truck, grounded everything appropiately and it has worked great.

I did use a Scotchlock, but I completely sealed it up with liquid electrical tape. If I have a problem down the road, I cut and solder.

I also used the round tractor lights from NAPA. They cost my $9/ea

Going on 2 years, zero failures.

Dave

 

One of mine burned out and I purchased two new ones today. I'll probably put them on tomorrow, went with 55 watters this time.

 

Thanks alot guys. I have it mostly figured out heres my plan. Found the right wire thanks Rattlin Iam goin to not use sotchlocks and go with the quick splice dudes iam goin to then shrink wrap all the connections goin to find and figure out how to work installing a relay every things allready ground i even put a new fuse in the line from the lights that the company supplyed becuase as my luck would have it i would get it all buttoned up and running for awile and that fuse that the gave me would pop so new new new new new. Thanks y'all