This may be kind of a dumb question, but I was wondering how you guys plumbed your fuel pressure line into the top of the filter lid. Now it's not hard at all to screw a fitting in to the top, but how do you have it setup to pull the lid when you change your filter?

I haven't got it completely hooked up yet, but I've got a braided line to run straight from the guage to the filter lid, with a needle valve and swivel connection at the filter so I can close the valve and disconnect the line when I change my filter.

Basically just wondering if anyone had a better setup or a better idea. I was thinking quick-connects, but couldn't find them in 1/8" and didn't want to add any more fittings to the system.

 

Anything???

 

Buy a tapped banjo bolt and put it in the bottom of the filter housing.
Remove the stock banjo bolt, screw in the tapped banjo bolt, re-install the factory line and attatch the plumbing for your FP gauge. No need to mess with the lid.
Here's a link for reference........http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ban...ss-p/tbblt.htm

 

What about all the dirt that collects on the bottom of the canister, wouldn't that clog up line?

 

Heres a pic - thanks to Moose10 this is on an 01 (dont forget the needle valve):






Back to the original question - heres a few more pics from the site (I believe both these trucks are 99's):

 

That dirt does not enter the outlet to the IP.

Now after reading Dr. Evil's post (which is a good one BTW), I realize I was off base on my post. I forgot that some years had the outlet on the top.

 

That's correct. My 98.5 has two NPT fittings on the lid, one inside the filter and one outside the filter. I thin kit is 2000+ that switched to a plastic lid, and one needs to use a tapped banjo on the bottom of those.
BTW, I tapped my own banjo bolt without any problems using a bottoming 1/8" NPT tap and drilling to 21/64".

 

Thanks for the replys.

I've got a 2000, and I've got 2 options. I've got a filter lid from Geno's with the 1/8" port on top and I've also got a spare tapped banjo bolt. I was looking at using the filter lid port just because it's a whole lot easier to get to. I can barely reach the banjo on the bottom, much less getting wrenches on and not messing anything up. The only thing I don't like about the filter lid is if I had to undo the line every time I change a filter. I haven't changed the filter in a while and it's due. I can't remember how many turns it takes before it comes loose, that's why I was thinking of using the swivel connection.

The reason I want to use the filter housing is because the braided line I have is long enough to reach it, but won't reach the injection pump. I also have my low fuel light sender on the IP and want to leave it there as a kind of visual backup. Trying to do this as simple as possible with the least amount of connections to possibly leak down the road...

 

I did not have any issues replacing the bottom banjo bolt with a tapped one. Right, you can't see it and have to work by touch but it is not too bad. I liked that option on my friend's truck because he had no Geno's lid anyway.
If you use a good quality fitting for the line on Geno's lid, taking it off for filter changes will be a painless deal as it is so accessible. Crappy fittings such as Parkers have potential to kink on the flex line after a while. If you use Swagelok you can take it off and put back on as many times as you want and it will not leak.

 

Well, I just got it done last night. Decided to go with the banjo on the bottom, pain in the neck to get to, but hopefully I won't ever have to touch it again.

The setup I used was a 90 out of the banjo bolt into a needle valve, then ran a braided line out of that, through the firewall and straight into the guage.