I gotcha!

 

If I just unbolt the cover can I pullit out far enough to see the timeing marks or does it all have to come apart. When I get it apart what do I have to do to line it up again.

 

You'll have to pull the cover all the way off. I'm not real sure if you can "jump" that gear either. I do as mr77 does and roll the engine over by hand until the key is at 12:00. If you get the KDP kit from TST it comes with everything you need: new seal, KDP tab, gray rtv for the cover. Runs around 50 bucks I believe.

 

Well the cover is most likely siliconed so once you break the seal you need to reseal it. Once you get it off you will see the timing marks on the camshaft gear and the pump gear. If the timing is off basiclly you will just need to remove the injector pump gear and reposition it i believe the cam has a double dot and the injector pump gear has a single dot just line them up. And like i said plan on a new front crank seal. the seal will come with a plastic collar that fits inside the seal. this collar is what centers the gear housing cover and the front crank seal. if you dont do this it will leak.

 

Just a thought but is the boost line on good and where the grid heater attaches the gasket is in place. I know with the boost line off it gives similar problems. Like i said just a thoght??

 

Maybe the new pump is bad?

 

Update: I started the truck up again today just to check out some of these other ideas. It started rough again just like the first time I got it started yesterday and the fuel pressure guage read 0 for a few seconds while it did this and them all the sudden spiked up to 16pounds and held steady. The engine eventually smoothed out and idles fine except the white smoke. Sounds like a fairly loud, rapid clicking noise coming from the new IP also. Also noticed now I have a very small crack in the exhaust manifold. Excuse my ignorance here for not knowing the part names here but where the turbo exhaust and the exhaust manifold meet there is a bolt together section there with a gasket. This gasket is leaking and blowing small air bubbles of something.

 

small air bubbles.........**** man stop turning the truck on......that is raw fuel or even worse coolant............on one of my buddys we installed the pump on wrong and it made loud clicking noise aswell........soon as we got the timing set correctly the noise went away..........when we had ours on wrong it was running so rich that it kept trying to pump air into the engine because its seeing timing wrong and trying to adjust to whatever it thinks is best....if you dont want to buy a seal thats expensive........we had a role of cork in the garage that runs nearly a few bucks for liek 8 feet of the stuff......just line the old one up and cut with a razor blade......

 

For the worse I found my problem here. Got fed up and pulled it all back apart again and kiss my gritts, the shaft key was sheared off almost flat with the shaft so it was just spinning. Now I gotta call Blue Chip in the morning and I hope he's in a good mood. This could be real expensive.

 

Can you sping the input shaft on the pump?...and if you can does it turn fairly easy, no bind? I had a "re-man" come back on the hook after only going 9 miles that did the same thing. Pump seized internally and sheared the key. Luckily I was able to get the pieces out and the gear appeared ok. On a side note. When I install these pumps I clean the bore of the gear and the snout of the pump with brake clean to make sure all oil is off the mating surfaces when I assemble. Torque the front nut to 125ft lbs.

 

Pump turns free right now out of the truck so I assume it was while installed. The pump was making a loud enough noise while running that it could easily be heard over the engine, sounded like when you were a kid and put the playing card in your bike spokes. Don't know what that was, but it was definately coming from the pump. I doubt that with the quality of these pumps that it was a pump problem, I'm sure that it was my malfunction just don't know what.