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Problems with DiPricol FP gauge

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:09 PM
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From: Maine
Problems with DiPricol FP gauge

Well, the gauge is about 5 months old, and with in the past two weeks the gauge has developed a real loud anoyoing rattling noise and the needle vibrates severely and jumps around alot when i hit a bump. The gauge is mounted on the steering column. I took the gauge out of the pod to see if there was anything visible, but the rattling is without a doubt coming from inside of the gauge itself. Has anyone had a problem like this before with their gauge? Would it be worth taking the gauge apart? Does anyone know what kind of warrenty come with these gauges, Thanks for the help
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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From: Lubbock TX.
Put a needle valve on the hookup and just barely crack it open. They will all buzz if you just hook it up with out one. And over time they can wear the gauge out too. Pretty simple fix.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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From: The Great White North
Dont bother taking it apart...there is no user seviceable parts....

Do you have a needle valve to act as a snubber?? Or is the fuel straight to the guage??
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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The fuel goes straight to the gauge. If i put a needle valve on, and just crack it open, will that eliminate the buzzing noise?
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:31 PM
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From: The Great White North
Originally Posted by CTD2001
The fuel goes straight to the gauge. If i put a needle valve on, and just crack it open, will that eliminate the buzzing noise?
You can try it...you probably need a new guage. You need a needle valve or pressure snubber to dampen pulses from both the LP and VP-44
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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From: Maine
Yeah, i might just buy a new gauge and put a needle valve on when i hook up the new gauge, i almost think that this gauge is past saving, it get worse by the mile
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:41 PM
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From: Jerome, ID
I had the same problem thought it was the gauge let it go for a couple months until i got smart and did a search on this site and realized i needed a needle valve.$5 at home depot and it fixed the problem.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:43 PM
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From: Maine
what do i need to make a needle valve? Is it something that is already assembled? Thanks for the help
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 11:23 PM
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From: Jerome, ID
CTD2001 just go to home depot or any plumbing store find the brass compression fittings and they should have a needle valve assembly that is set up for 1/4" tubing.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 01:37 AM
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From: Newport News, VA
That works fine and dandy......if all yer fittings are compression thread. I had some 1/8" pipe, and they don't sell on that works. I had to go to a specialty store to get one.
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 09:51 AM
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From: New Meadows, Idaho


NAPA sells it for 8 bucks. Weatherhead - WH6820
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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From: Maine
Great, is that the part number i give them at Napa? That is just what i need, Thanks
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 09:37 PM
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From: New Meadows, Idaho
Originally Posted by CTD2001
Great, is that the part number i give them at Napa? That is just what i need, Thanks
Yeap! That number will do it. But the valve is a male/female 1/8 NPT... So your going to need a male/male pipe too..

Take another look...


But yeah that number applies to a WeatherHead Valve...
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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From: Bucks county PA
do you put the valve between the source and isolateor or between the isolator and gauge? and wont opening it slightly allow the fluid to come out?
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:44 AM
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From: New Meadows, Idaho
Originally Posted by Captain
do you put the valve between the source and isolateor or between the isolator and gauge? and wont opening it slightly allow the fluid to come out?
At least in my setup there is no isolator use at all... Just the valve.

But if you were going to use the valve with a isolator you would put the valve before the isolator on the fuel side. Then just open the valve a good turn or two. Being the isolator would do the suppressing of the pulses but the valve would allow you to shutdown in a failure. (Which is happen with the isolators that I've heard).
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