Hi all,

Once I'm done replacing my busted dana 80, I'm gonna be thinking about a different fuel plate. I currently have a #8 in it. Just for the record, I do have guages installed. How would a #100 compare to what I have? As for a #0, I understand they're aggressive as hell everywhere. Can they be reasonably driven every day, assuming you have the sense to be light on the pedal?

 

a 0 plate is very streetable, as long as you aren't heavy on the pedal. i ground a 0 for my truck and 2 of my friends my clutch lasted 8 months and my friends clutches only lasted 1-2 weeks. it all depends how you drive it

 

I have pics of both in my gallery

But im thinkin u know what they look like already, As Halerazor said, a o is streetable, but u have to stay off of it, on the top end it makes no difference, both plates make u watch the pyrometer... But the 100 is a little bit more street friendly than a 0, not as much smoke on take off....

regardless, u have the right idea...

Tx

 

Alrighty then, that's good. Yet another example of being able to get stupid power from a diesel without suffering any real mileage or economy penalty if you do it right. Can my old stock plate be ground into a #0? If so, I'll set to it-I don't have much money right now, but I have some time and tools.

 

yes you can grind your stock plate to a zero. and the price is right also.

 

Where's a good place to get instructions on doing that?

 

I made a stencil from plexiglass so I could remark it as I do the rough in grinding.

A nickel or something similar works for the profile of your stencil.

I mark it rough it in on a bench grinder, holding the plate with my hands to prevent it from being overheated, get it real close within a 1/32" of being finished. Then get the bigger gouge marks from the bench grinder out using a drum sander on a Dremel. Once satisfied I'll sand it with emery cloth (320 grit) then i'll move onto 600 wet dry sand paper. Once that is done then Dremel gets a felt polishing wheel with Simi-Chrome metal polish (any metal polish will work) till I can see my reflection. Basically the do's are make it shine. The reason is because you DO NOT want to wear your governor lever arm, I've ground customers plates that they tried to grind and they were just roughed in and not finished and the wear on the plate was terrible could only
imagine what the lever looked like! The don'ts are don't get the plate too hot during rough in, hence the reason why I hold mine un-gloved with my bare hands. Take your time enjoy self! You'll like the results 2-3 hours from start to finish on your first plate.

JMHO that's how I grind mine good luck and have fun with your FREE POWER
PS it's not free when you break stuff though

 

Sounds good. Now I just need a template or good photo.

 

Check my gallery i've got some so so pics of my plate as well as a stecil pic, I tried to duplicate it from a pic I saw in someone else gallery can't remember who. Also look in Dshiftff's & TxDiesel007's gallery as they both have pics of my plates that I ground for them.

 

If someone will give a few dimensions on the 100 plate I can draw a template with my auto cad program and post it on this site.

Dave

 

check out the thread i posted a while back about grinding plates. and the exact deminsions are not that big a deal when you figure that you can slide the blate back and forth over a quarter of a inch.

 

if one is not towing real heavy 0 plate all the way. i have been using one for over a year. best mileage in town so far is 19.8. power is awesome.

 

heres the plate northslope did for me, slick as hell!

 

How much does he charge to do those?

 

don't you have access to a pedastol grinder and a die grinder. if someone charges more than $20 to grind their crazy. just rough it out with a grinder then go back with a die grinder and smooth it all up to the finished deminsion you want. the whole pocess takes about 10min and you don't need a mirror finish on it just make it smooth