Alright. This mainly for you guys who have a sound system in your truck. I've got a Holley Black on my truck. I've also got 2 Audiobahn AW125T 12's with a 1500w Audiobahn Mono ch amp powering them. My FP with the subs off is about 18@idle. When my subs are hitting hard, I can watch my FP bounce around with the beat of the subs. Subs hit, FP goes down. Subs don't hit, FP goes back up. It never goes below 16@idle. I've got 4 gauge wire running to it. Is the FP being affected cause the subs are hitting so hard that it is drawing current from the fuel pump? My headlights do dim when idling. Not a whole bunch. But noticeable. Any ideas? I know I need a cap but I don't have the money right now.

 

Same thing happens when the grid heaters turn on. There is enough current draw to drop the voltage. If you have a digital fuel pressure gauge it may be effecting it instead of the lift pump. Just a thought.

 

My gauge is digital. But all my other gauges stay perfectly normal. EGT, Boost, and Tranny temp.

 

I think you already guessed it... You need a capaciter. I run big amps on all my vehicles and they do run the juice. #4 wire 1500 watts mono DUDE!!! You know whats happening to the juice your producing and where its going.<br>Bet it sounds great!<br><br>James

 

upgrade to 2 gauge wire ..........upgrade the factory grounds too .........<br><br>I'm running 2 gauge and 1400 watts of class a/b power and have no light dimming or voltage problems <br><br>

 

I agree on the #2 wire and the best grounding possible but Where alot of the weakness shows up also is when the Battery or Batteries are no longer at their best. I would be willing to bet that one of the batteries is not up to par anymore or even both of them are marginal.<br>Capaciter is the easiest fix given so far... They aren't even that expensive and you can put them on yourself.<br>I would also be willing to bet that even with #2 wire and the best grounding if your bateries couldn't reserve enough power your system would pulse your lights, except of course, you run a mega alternator that can handle it all.

 

4 gauge wire is fine for the distance he is running. The ground is fine its only about a foot and half long. There is really no need to change to 2 gauge wire. It may just be the batteries. A 3.5 Farad A/B cap is recommended for that size amp and I dont think he wants to spend money on that.

SD03

 

[quote author=BigBlue link=board=7;threadid=16833;start=0#157798 date=1057700372]<br> I can watch my FP bounce around with the beat of the subs. Subs hit, FP goes down. Subs don't hit, FP goes back up. It never goes below 16@idle. I've got 4 gauge wire running to it. Is the FP being affected cause the subs are hitting so hard that it is drawing current from the fuel pump? [/quote]<br><br>The answer is yes your amp is drawing the power from your FP for your subs. Long and short of it! Stronger batteries would keep this from happening until you get so taxed from playing it so long. In my humble opinion...

 

Alright. Just wanted to make sure. It's kind of fun when your sitting at a stop light. JCL123, it sounds sick inside. I haven't gotten a chance to hear it outside. I can tell my batts are going out. I've got it running of the passenger side batt. I had it on the driver batt for a while but my lights would dim worse for some reason. The truck does take a bit longer to crank than before. Oh well.

 

I think it is funnier than hell when you can have your windows up and people hear all that CTD noise and BOOM BOOM BOOM!

 

On one of the Bass test songs you CANT hear any noise from the motor even when your on the throttle with the windows down. Cant remember about full thottle. [undecided] But still.......its loud. ;D