I have everything listed in my signature. I am looking for my next upgrade.

Here is where I am at. I run about 30-40 psi of boost. If I keep on it from a stop till I leave off I can hit 1300 egt. I have the stock turbo. I use this as a daily driver - some in town racing. light to light. Looking to keep up with the 1st & 2nd gen lance/eclipse awd
What am I looking for next?

thanks

 

Whats your timing at? Where is your plate at? Any AFC mods? Are you cleaning up your smoke at all? 1300 degrees on a long pull is a good temp, which means you can run more fuel. If you're hitting 1300 degrees getting up to 50mph, time for some more air.

I'd say timing around 16 degrees, 100 or 0 plate, mod the AFC for more travel, then decide if you need a bigger turbo, or bigger sticks. Or both!

 

Plate is the whole way forward. Afc as loose as possible for take off. I have it set so I can get as much fuel as I can at the moment. Not sure where the timing is. I am thinking on maybe a 0,100,or a 10 plate. I was searching this and I think a 10 plate will give me the most without hurting anything. I did forget I did the afc spring to I just don't remember which spring I used

 

no no use the afc as a tuning tool dont just "loosen" it or tighten it all the way.. from what ive learned through my own testing,the afc controls fuel in relation to boost.. so if u loosen it all the way you get less fuel b4 the boost hits (laggy) if you tighten it all the way you dump fuel before the boost hits (again laggy and the egts get hot fast) .. if you tune it right you can end up with a quick spooling, low smoking truck
Now as for timing thats something you want to look into. a 10 plate (according to the chart) just isnt as good as your number 6 so why go backwards? if anything it should be a 100 or a 0 plate. Imo id rather go for either more air (turbo)or bigger injectors.. do you have gauges? i didnt see them in the sig. and 30 to 40 psi sounded like you were just guessing.
I hate to burst your bubble but unless that eclipse gsx or lancer evo is basically stock what you have just wont cut it .. those cars r verryy quick with just a programmer

 

That is what I am tring to figure out. We have a circuit in york where everyone hangs out. light to light.. toy with each other...

The rice burners are quick and I am tring to atleast compete with them. Also there is the bi turbo audi that I am tring to toy with also. They just say my truck has no chance.

I have the afc loose the whole way because that is where I got the most off the line take off. It seems like I could loosen it more and gain but it is the whole way loose. I did adjust the afc tight,mid way, and loose.

With that said I am tring to see what my next upgrade is going to be worth it. If you say a turbo? What turbo? I was thinking on the 16/62 or 16/64 swizer if I am right. I also would run without my plate but I think that will create more harm than good. I might also put in the 4 gsk kit but I heard it has a rough idle and the throttle is very touchy. I am not into having more problems. What to do what to do.

Yes I got gauges but it only reads 30 psi my boost goes around 35-40 on the gauge it will go to the u in turbo ( signature updated)

 

ok as a true car guy theres a difference between ricer burners and just plain out well built imports.. rice burners r the cars that basically ride around with ugly body kits, neons, and fart cans and their drivers they are fast. while the well built imports dont think they are fast.. they just are laying down fast times on the track because they didnt waist their time with the cosmetics they went straight for performance.
With that out of the way.. id definetly get a new boost gauge if it only goes to 30psi because you have no clue how much boost your actually running. do u launch ur truck on the boost or not? as for turbos is actually the other way around 62 is the size of the inducer 16 is the size of the exhaust housing. If i was you id go for the 62/12 or 62/14 that way you have a room to add more fuel with still plenty of air. Theres many companies that make these turbos such as BD HTT ATS

 

Yes I tried launching both ways. I do start spinning if I boost. It does ok but I need more of the line and throughout the rest of the rpm. I am thinking of taking the plate out tonight and seeing if this will make any difference. I just don't want to hurt the pump ( rack issue?) I also am searching the afc mod ( grinding the arm) I am not sure on either of these that is why I did not do these yet. I worked on vehicles for many years and rebuilt engines. These diesels are newer to me and trying to see what I can do little by little till I am happy.

I do understand about the racers n I do see what you are saying. I just want to be able to atleast get them off the line..ect...ect... Have a little chance...
some hope..

I think if I pull the plate it should come more alive. Maybe the afc gut or shaving the arm...????

Money is tight...... and we are going to the circuit to hang out with everone sat if things work out. I just need as much as I can get with more choices for next time and be able to start looking for parts. I think if I have a better turbo I can get what I am after....?

 

Loose spring will dump more fuel quickly, possibly overfuel the engine and cause a laggy turbo. Tight will keep from dumping too much fuel. It won't be so much a laggy turbo as just not increasing the fuel rate enough to get the turbo going quickly.

If you don't tow, do a 100 or 0 plate. If you run a functional AFC, you won't know the difference between the two plates anyway, so a 0 is the quickest to make. Tune your AFC so you are just getting a haze when your are WOT until you hit max boost. Too much fuel will cause it to bog out of the hole and its not as much fun.

I've got a 4k kit in my dually, its not bad for sensitivity, just need a steady foot. My 12v with the 3k kit and HR370's is more sensitive than it. Depending on your tranny, the 4k won't get you too much more rpm, as the tranny will still shift around the same point. Hopefully some automatic guys will jump in on that aspect.

My course of action when the funds allow would be timing to 16 or so, 4k kit (should be about $16 to upgrade), valve springs for peace of mind, 62mm turbo, bigger sticks (I really like my F1's) and get that tranny set so you can use your extra rpm.

 

PDW is having a sale on Industrial Injection turbos.
http://www.performancedieselwarehous...urbo_Sale.html

I personally would go with a SuperPhat Shaft 62. That way you will have room to grow and still be able to tow.

I ran out of turbo when I had a PhatShaft62 with 90hp sticks.

Also, I have ran a 0 and 100 and like the 100 better it doesnt dump the black smoke off the line as much.

Also, a 4kgsk will fuel harder off the line and maybe give you more rpms.

What size pump do you have on your truck? 160, 180, 215?

Bump your timing to 16.5* and that will gain you alot of hp.
JMO

 

Thanks guys for the input.
Yes I do tow from time to time.
If the 0 plate is the same as not having a plate then I think pulling the plate would be a good choice. Maybe I am wrong?

My star wheel is as loose as it can get because I get the most off the line. I tried 3 positions and it seems like it worked best loose. The only thing I did notice is maybe I am over fueling a little. It seems maybe I get more if I use 8/10 of my pedal instead of flat to the floor. I figured I can get more with some adjustment from the wheel but right now I am looking for quick at home hp by this weekend.

Here let me ask this. I should gain a lot by taking the plate out vrs my #6 plate I have now?

 

Your stock turbo at 40psi is about 13psi outside of its efficiency range. At that boost level you are only making hot air, not a good dense charge of air. A turbo would probably be your best upgrade to look at next. You are going to get way more air into the engine. This is going to bring your egts down and allow you to add more fuel. The Super B turbo we have will supply enough air for 450hp. If you want to go bigger than that the single will grow into our twin kit.

Definately look at getting more air before you put more fuel in. That way you arent going to have to worry about egts.

 

You can get 450hp out of the stock turbo.
A 57mm turbo isnt much of a stepup IMHO.

He needs to go to a 62 with a 65 or 71 tubine.

 

An extended tip will get him more than enough air. Wheel size is really irrelevant. It is CFM how much air does it move that you need to watch. The "57" we have will flow 850cfm which is about 150 cfm more than a stock charger. If he is towing with the truck you don't want to go too big. 24V sure you can go bigger because the timing will adjust itself, but with static timing you have to be really careful on sizing.

 

I have a 180 pump (signature updated)

 

OK. Just wanted to see what size delivery valves you have in it.
IIRC 180 pumps have the 181 delivery valves in it.