I will be installing my long overdue gsk as soon as I get back home to Florida later this week. is there anyone visiting or living in the sunshine state that could "watch" me install this kit to avoid possibly damaging the sweet butie that
lies beneath?

I've got lots of goodies to install 4", gauges,gsk but the gsk while not appearing to be difficult I cringe at the thought of damaging something and then the wife saying something and then, well getting another wife

I will be back home on the 1st of December

thanks to all


lewis

 

Not much to watch over

Just go thru the side of the injection pump instead of the top. You might wanna remove the driver side battery to assist you and make things easier for you. Just take your time, and have a pencil magnet, they are your best friends with these things... u should be fine..

Make sure u count how many clicks to tighten (FYI i think the average is 6 and 3/4 turns to get it to where they were before) OR you can get a caliper and measure the distance from the top of the governer stud to the base of the retaining nut.

Rick

 

I just did mine, and I agree with TxDiesel007, go through the plug on the side of the pump, it is much easier this way than through the top. Here are some directions from PDR:

http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm

Look at this link as well, it starts off by talking about going through the top, but if you read on, there are good tips on how to go through the plug on the side, this helped me a lot:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/GovSpring.htm

Here are some instructions from DB, they are for going through the top, but read them anyway, they have good pictures:

http://bd-power.com/manuals/

(select Governor Spring Kit, and enter the year, then you can download the pdf file)

Here are some more tips, that will make more sense after you read the instructions:

* To remove the plug use a 22mm socket instead of a 7/8 socket, it fits much better. You'll have to cut the anti-tamper sealing wire to remove the plug -- this wire just means you have "violated" the pump.
* When you take off the fuel shut off solenoid, you also need to remove an arm that serves as a stop for the shut off lever, and remove the shut off lever itself. Don't loose the spacers for the two 10mm bolts that hold the arm to the pump. To remove the shut off lever, you'll need a 8mm socket, the lever rides on a Woodruff key, just make sure you put it back where it is. You'll see what I mean when you get there.
* It is critical that you screw in the two adjusting nuts to the exact same position as they are from the factory. Here is what I did: mark the nut and the stud with paint, count the number of turns it takes to back the nut out and the orientation of the nut, also use a caliper to measure the how much the stud sticks out. The nut rides on notches, so it will click into position. I was able to get the nuts exactly where they were, using these measurements.
* Make sure you only leave the largest spring, the other three smaller springs get replaced. Make sure you take out the three smallest springs, the two spring seats, and all washers under the two medium springs. Once you have them all out, look in the hole with a mirror, make sure all everything is out of the stud, except the largest spring.

I did all this, and had no issues. Good luck.

 

Let me ask this while I'm here -- Can I install a 4K GSK and keep the RPM's down under 3K until I get the monies for the valvesprings? (...assuming I have the discipline to keep my foot off it).

Reason I ask is I already have the pump off, now would be the best time to put these babies on...but I don't want to get into the valvesprings yet, and need to keep some money for my trip back to MASS...

 

I suppose I can try the install alone. If it doesnt work out i'll just tow it. I'm pretty sure I can do it but always nice to have other eyes on it

 

I've never installed a 4k GSK, but I think so. The valve springs are just to keep the valves working properly at high RPMs. Just stay down low, and you should be fine.


Well I'll come over, if you provide the plane ticket, I'm in LA.

You'll be fine, its not that hard. Just read the all of these directions before you start the job. The most common problem is not putting the spring nuts back where they were, people don't measure right, and leave them too tight or too loose.

 

yessir

i have no valve springs in mine, and believe me they do hold an occasional romp to 3500 rpms... But i wouldnt do it too often...

Rick

 

Sweet. Got the pump out in my car, going to drop it off at the diesel injection place today to yank the back cover and find the nut inside there, and make sure everything is OK. Too bad I didn't have the springs already, I'd just have him stick them in there while he's got it apart. Oh well.