Manual hub conversion
Manual hub conversion
Anyone done a manual hub conversion on a 8800lb GVW ram with dana 60 axle? Im getting really tired of these unit hubs and wondering if I could pick up some fuel economy to boot, by switching over to manual.
Another idea is to just shotgun the whole axle and get something from another application that didnt have the CAD and unit bearings.
Another idea is to just shotgun the whole axle and get something from another application that didnt have the CAD and unit bearings.
I've got the EMS on mine. You won't notice a mileage increase if you had a CAD that stayed unlocked, since most of the drivetrain wasn't turning anyway. Good price, went together easily.
If you're looking for a whole axle to put under there, you'd be looking for a 97 or older Ford D60. Bonus is that its high pinion and has 35 spline axles factory. LanceD did it to his truck, and if I remember right, broke even after selling his dodge axle.
If you're looking for a whole axle to put under there, you'd be looking for a 97 or older Ford D60. Bonus is that its high pinion and has 35 spline axles factory. LanceD did it to his truck, and if I remember right, broke even after selling his dodge axle.
Like Kawi600, I got tired of replacing unit bearings on my 97 2500 4x4 (was either going to have to buy my 4th since buying the truck in 2003 or convert it to old school hubs, spindles and manual lockouts and very rarely have to deal with front bearings again), so I very recently installed the Yukon Gear hub conversion kit on it. Like Tate said, bought from EMS Offroad, it was decently priced ($1400 shipped) and the parts were all very high quality and generally went together nicely. I'm very pleased with what I got. I did a little write-up of my experience here (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hub+conversion), as it was one of the first threads I found on DTR when researching whether to try the Ford parts conversion route or go with all new parts and not worry about compatibility issues. I haven't checked fuel mileage yet, but one thing I noticed immediately was noticeably less steering effort when turning the steering wheel and the truck seems to roll more easily on very slight inclines/declines when I come to a stop and let the brake off. I hope to check the mileage with a fill-up this week and get a combo hiway/city reading in a week or so. I'll try to update this thread once I do that.
Theres a writeup on pirate4x4 about swapping the knuckles and hubs from a ford dana 60 onto the dodge.
Not only is it cheaper, but you get the ford twin piston calipers. Probably a lot more aftermarket options too.
Not only is it cheaper, but you get the ford twin piston calipers. Probably a lot more aftermarket options too.
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Rockyhud,
Do you have ABS? I have been looking for a kit but I am being told that no one makes a kit for ABS equipped rigs - which I have. I was told only one percent of the '99's have ABS/AWL. I never thought I wouldn't want to be a one-percenter until now!
Do you have ABS? I have been looking for a kit but I am being told that no one makes a kit for ABS equipped rigs - which I have. I was told only one percent of the '99's have ABS/AWL. I never thought I wouldn't want to be a one-percenter until now!
Im still trying to find a cheap axle or just the knuckles and outer parts. A shop I use quoted me 1000$ for the axle, but that was in good shape with the larger diameter brake rotors. Cant remember what year(s) ford did that.
I used a 96 F350, SRW, ball joint D60. I swapped the knuckles and out, instead of swapping the entire axle. I was more concerned about the better braking power of the dual piston calipers than the hub conversion. That was just icing. The axle I got had automatic hubs. It works well even with my center axle disconnect. I don't think I can shift into 4x4 on the fly though, because the axles are now not moving at all when disengaged, and I have to engage the axles before the hubs will lock. Never tried.
I have never really measured if there was an increase in mileage because I can never get through a tank of fuel without towing something heavy, which of course, skews mileage numbers.
The steering seems to wander a little, because I have not changed out the pitman arm, as per the Pirate4x4 advice. It's not bad though, and I would not go back to the single piston calipers. The brakes are SO much better with this setup.
Chris
I have never really measured if there was an increase in mileage because I can never get through a tank of fuel without towing something heavy, which of course, skews mileage numbers.
The steering seems to wander a little, because I have not changed out the pitman arm, as per the Pirate4x4 advice. It's not bad though, and I would not go back to the single piston calipers. The brakes are SO much better with this setup.
Chris
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