Has anyone ran this clutch before?? Seems like a good deal for the $$$, says its a little bit more driver freindly, this would be for a 12v on the street, and mildly tuned. Thanks Chris

 

I've installed Luk Pro Gold clutches in several trucks, mildly tuned- no big power enhancements- and they work well. Luk is a good name in clutches, and they manufacture for the OEM.

 

If your looking at a Luk, look at the cermametallic clutch rated at 1000 ft/lbs. Gold is rated at 600 I beleive.

 

the cerametallic is rated at approx 550hp/1000tq...but there is a member here with a 1st gen that has run his clutch at 617HP and i would guess somewhere around 1200tq and he races it alot and has had no issues the last i heard.

i run the cerametallic at 400hp and i have yet to slip it, and i drive it like i stole it. my 6spd gives me a "slightly" rough engagement when taking off in second gear, but i towed a 6,000lbs trailer and using 1st gear to take off was smootha s can be, and the clutch help great for towing. i would recommend this to folks who cant afford double the amount for a south bend clutch. if i had the money i would have gotten a south bend, but if you cant afford the SBC go with the luk cerametallic, its a great alternative.

 

When you guys talk about HP, i assume you are talking about RWH, right? I don't think i'm near 500hp Rear wheels, I'm running cam plate, injecterors, timming, 4000RPM gov springs, dealivery valves, and stock turbo, My trucks lifted, and i do very little towing, would you recomend this clutch, or another brand. I'm new to the clutch world, because i have a ATS auto in it now, and i'm swaping a 5-speed. Thanks for the help

 

if you are close to or over 500hp with a lift and big tires...im not sure if i would recommend it. especially if you drive it hard. with the strain of larger tires and being at the clutches advertised limit, you can expect a short life, but thats from any clutch even peter at SBC will tell you that.

 

my luk holds if im slaming gears all the way through. but if im in 4 or 5 and dry to smash it good luck on it holding. this is just my personal exp.

 

www.drivetrain.com has a luk pro gold with a ferimac disc in it for $675 they call it their stage 3 clutch and rated at 500hp. the ferimac grabs and holds alot better than the cerametallic. i've never seen a cerametallic rated at 550hp. i have 2 friends who have installed the one from drivetrain and have had no problems with it and they have not been able to slip it at all with the same mods i have. luks are preety good for the money though

 

[QUOTE=getblown5.9]the cerametallic is rated at approx 550hp/1000tq...but there is a member here with a 1st gen that has run his clutch at 617HP and i would guess somewhere around 1200tq and he races it alot and has had no issues the last i heard.QUOTE]

Well I am the guy with the First Gen and my new numbers are 639/1300 on diesel only and 680/1440 on water meth. My clutch will now slip a little bit, but usually it will only slip a little and then grab. I put it in July of 2004 when I was at 400+hp on #2 and 500+ on water/meth.

I wouldn’t say that I race allot, but I have been out to the track a few times and it worked fine. I am not easy on it and it has taken the abuse very well. I also have a Getrag tranny so maybe I am just about the luckiest guy around it should have blown up years ago.

I blew my KTA special injection pump up so now I am back to a stock injection pump and I recently dynoed at 418hp on #2 and over 500 on water/meth. Clutch is still working just fine. I will be building a new injection pump to hopefully get me back to where I was.

For the money I say it’s worth it. Just my 2cts.

Stomp

 

What are some of the other brands that are around the $1000-$1500 price range??

 

South Bend Clutch seems to be the hot clutch around here.

http://www.southbendclutch.com/dynamax.html

Why are you converting from auto to stick instead of just upgrading yours?

 

We once offered a clutch like this for the 5 speed trucks (MU 0090 CON OFE)but had to take it off the market. The problem wasn't getting the 12" clutch to hold the power, the problem was, with that type of torque the 12" spring assembly in the disc would not last long. Heck, we even see them break at lesser #'s. There is not much area for dampening.

Who's ever brand you use I would highly recommend a 13" upgrade when dealing with these kind of #'s.

Peter

 

Peter this post really changes my opinion a bit. I have been on here for awhile and when i went with the LUK cerametallic I caught some ridicule from members here telling me i should have went with SBC and that its not very smart to use a certain clutch thats not gonna last liek a SBC. For what I wanted I got a clutch for less than half the price of a SBC that will last me 2 years and 30-40K miles then it was well worth the $560. In 2 years when I am able to afford more and what i have is no longer sufficient...i will be going with a SBC DD set-up to hold the power. i always have liked SBC and what i've heard but it was impossible to do at the time because I needed my truck for work and only had limited funds.

When i see you making posts here that recommend the guy buy any clutch he desires but he should go with a 13" upgrade I see that as very respectable that you dont bash every other company and try to push your product onto the members here.

Signed,
the temporarily poor, but future SBC customer

 

Well i have a good auto, no need to up grade, it only has about 20k miles on it, I had a special made TorqConverter made form ATS, b/c the first one had too high of a stall and would LOC UP, but would not loc up tight, Something to do with stator, So I sent it back and got a custom built new one. No problems now.
My buddie that does some of my motor work had an auto in his(98 12v also) and put a stick in it about 3 years ago, for pulling trailers, Now he's married, And he wants my auto (so the wife can drive) and he's going to put a stick in mine, So we both have what we want as far as interior pieces and that. And I LOVE TO SHIFT!!!!! I'd take a stick over an auto any day, Just personal prefence!!

 

south bend is a very good clutch, but i wouldn't buy a SB because of their quality i would buy it because of the customer support, i've read post of peter replacing clutches, because the guys didn't use them for what they were intended for. no one backs their product better than Peter, but when i'm talking guys at work that drag ricers and muscle cars and tell them my friends dropped $675 on a clutch their jaws drop. then i tell them mine only cost $3500 and then they just walk away. i do not know why the prices on everything for these trucks is out the roof, but now that diesel's are getting popular and were making national TV for sled pulling you would figure the prices would come down.