LP's...Holley Red, Blue, Black...???
LP's...Holley Red, Blue, Black...???
Hey Guys. As you can see by my forum name, I'm new here. I had no idea there was this much info out here!! What an awesome forum!!!
I just purchased a 98 2500 QC SB 4x4 24 valve, 5 spd, 78k and stock. I have no idea what was done as far as LP's or IP's. I've spent hours the past few days reading all the posts about the subject and have come to the conclusion that sooner or later, I will have to deal with this issue. I shoud still have 20k of warranty left, so is there any way to ensure that these items will be taken care of before the warranty expires? I can disconnect the LP to burn up the IP, but is that wise? Will anything else suffer? Pistons, injectors, etc? I did call the local DC dealer and was told that LP's are not covered under warranty. Is that the norm or is he feeding me a line?
Let's talk lift pumps now. I've read about the FASS and am not going to get anyone started on that. It was pretty much hashed out already and I know what the deal is there. However, what are the other choices? It seems that Holley makes at least 3, what are the differences and where to buy them? What about the PE4200? Some said that it is not meant for diesel. What about a secondary "pusher" pump. DieselDynamics(I think) has one. It seems that the pressure go up with those, is that an issue?
On to gauges...As I said before, it is stock...however, my parts from Summit arrived today. Just a K&N drop in and 4" exhaust. I also got a boost gauge and a pyro. After reading alot of posts today, I'm getting a fuel pressure gauge also. FP goes post filter, correct? and pyro goes pre turbo? I'm assuming that the pyro will need drilled and tapped. Anything special about not getting filings into some places, etc? Diesel doesn't not eat brass does it? The fp gauge I got is just a plain liquid filled gauge that I'm going to hang under the dash or somewhere. I'm not about to pay $200 for an Autometer.
Please respond with what you know, have heard or think you know. I will absorb it all and try to weed out the bs. I don't mind redundency so bring it on.
Thank you all...Steve.
I just purchased a 98 2500 QC SB 4x4 24 valve, 5 spd, 78k and stock. I have no idea what was done as far as LP's or IP's. I've spent hours the past few days reading all the posts about the subject and have come to the conclusion that sooner or later, I will have to deal with this issue. I shoud still have 20k of warranty left, so is there any way to ensure that these items will be taken care of before the warranty expires? I can disconnect the LP to burn up the IP, but is that wise? Will anything else suffer? Pistons, injectors, etc? I did call the local DC dealer and was told that LP's are not covered under warranty. Is that the norm or is he feeding me a line?
Let's talk lift pumps now. I've read about the FASS and am not going to get anyone started on that. It was pretty much hashed out already and I know what the deal is there. However, what are the other choices? It seems that Holley makes at least 3, what are the differences and where to buy them? What about the PE4200? Some said that it is not meant for diesel. What about a secondary "pusher" pump. DieselDynamics(I think) has one. It seems that the pressure go up with those, is that an issue?
On to gauges...As I said before, it is stock...however, my parts from Summit arrived today. Just a K&N drop in and 4" exhaust. I also got a boost gauge and a pyro. After reading alot of posts today, I'm getting a fuel pressure gauge also. FP goes post filter, correct? and pyro goes pre turbo? I'm assuming that the pyro will need drilled and tapped. Anything special about not getting filings into some places, etc? Diesel doesn't not eat brass does it? The fp gauge I got is just a plain liquid filled gauge that I'm going to hang under the dash or somewhere. I'm not about to pay $200 for an Autometer.
Please respond with what you know, have heard or think you know. I will absorb it all and try to weed out the bs. I don't mind redundency so bring it on.
Thank you all...Steve.
Im putting a Holley Blue which is good for 14psi on the project truck right now. If we dont have enough fuel psi then Im gonna run a red as a helper with the blue.
Red is good for like 7psi flows 97gph
Blue is good for 14psi flows 110gph
Black is good for 14psi 140 gph
I think Im not sure tho.
Red is good for like 7psi flows 97gph
Blue is good for 14psi flows 110gph
Black is good for 14psi 140 gph
I think Im not sure tho.
First off, the lift pump is covered under the 7 yr/100K mile warranty. Tell you dealer that or find a different dealer (is is part of the drive train). Secondly, take it in now and have them test the flow and pressure on it. If it's bad, have them replace it and get some kind of waiver stating that if the injection pump goes, that it should be covered under warranty. Do not unplug the lift pump and let the injection pump run by itself. You won't damage anything other than the IP but it's dishonest.
On to the new pumps. Don't do the PE4200. To many failures. Also don't do the Holley Black. To many failures. I'd do a Holley Red/stock lift pump combo or a slightly tweaked Holley Blue by itself. I highly recommened upgrading the lines to -8 all the way from the tank to the injection pump. That, or buy Rod's Max Flow kit.
As for gauges, I'd put the EGT pre turbo and mount the fuel pressure gauge in place of the schrader valve on the injection pump.
On to the new pumps. Don't do the PE4200. To many failures. Also don't do the Holley Black. To many failures. I'd do a Holley Red/stock lift pump combo or a slightly tweaked Holley Blue by itself. I highly recommened upgrading the lines to -8 all the way from the tank to the injection pump. That, or buy Rod's Max Flow kit.
As for gauges, I'd put the EGT pre turbo and mount the fuel pressure gauge in place of the schrader valve on the injection pump.
alrighty let me put my view for you,so far the answers and replies have been good,1st of all you cant buy a 4200 pe pump for a diesel,they wont see you one and wont warranty them if they break if you use them(and they will,) you ask how i know,im a dealer for product engineering and they are honest and recognize that they are not built for our application and if someone has one they will pay you your money back if you send it to them,as far as the holleys,use the blue they are very inexpensive and work fine,if your worried about them put a 2nd one under your back seat and use it when the other one dies if it even does die,first gauge should be a fuel preasure gauge,when the lift pump goes normally the injection pumps follows a bit later,they are around 1400-1600 dollars plus labor if you are out of warranty,gauge is alot cheaper,as far as the dealers checking them make sure you watch them do it, dodge is sick of replacing thier crappy lift pumps for everyone so now they are suppose to check volume not preasure so that even if you have 4 psi it still is good in thier eyes which is a crock, hope this helped you out,alot of good info is had on here and pay attention and youll know more than the dealers do,lol
BigBlue, first I must apologize. You are absolutly correct in saying that it would be dishonest to unplug the lift pump. If it fails while still under warranty, so be it. I'm not going to do anything to cause it to fail intentionally.
Is the 7yr/100k warranty a Dodge or Cummins warranty? I'm 3rd owner and don't know if the DC warranty will apply to me anymore.
Back to the Holley thing...where to get them? part numbers or just ask for a blue pump? Is a pusher/stock combo a better way than just an aftermarket LP?
Thanks to all.
Steve.
Is the 7yr/100k warranty a Dodge or Cummins warranty? I'm 3rd owner and don't know if the DC warranty will apply to me anymore.
Back to the Holley thing...where to get them? part numbers or just ask for a blue pump? Is a pusher/stock combo a better way than just an aftermarket LP?
Thanks to all.
Steve.
Holley fuel pumps can be purchased from Jegs(www.jegs.com). I highly recomend the Wildcat Max Flow(www.wildcatdiesel.com) system upgrade while upgrading the lift pump. I think the Autometer electric FP gauge was worth the money. Also, I don't think your truck is still under warranty. My truck had 5/yr 100k(Cummins)powertrain warranty, not 7/yr, check your owners manual.
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Originally posted by Ryan
Here is a link to a full Holley Blue kit that I have in the classifieds.
Holley Blue Kit
Here is a link to a full Holley Blue kit that I have in the classifieds.
Holley Blue Kit
Thanks, Steve.
Originally posted by gamiller31
Holley fuel pumps can be purchased from Jegs(www.jegs.com). I highly recomend the Wildcat Max Flow(www.wildcatdiesel.com) system upgrade while upgrading the lift pump. I think the Autometer electric FP gauge was worth the money. Also, I don't think your truck is still under warranty. My truck had 5/yr 100k(Cummins)powertrain warranty, not 7/yr, check your owners manual.
Holley fuel pumps can be purchased from Jegs(www.jegs.com). I highly recomend the Wildcat Max Flow(www.wildcatdiesel.com) system upgrade while upgrading the lift pump. I think the Autometer electric FP gauge was worth the money. Also, I don't think your truck is still under warranty. My truck had 5/yr 100k(Cummins)powertrain warranty, not 7/yr, check your owners manual.
Yeah, I need to call the dealer about that warranty.
Thanks, Steve.
I'm running the Holly Blue pump in place of my lift pump. I have not been running too long on it yet. It works great!
The tweak you need to do is the streach the overflow spring. The pump is rated for 14 PSI but comes with 8 PSI pressure. There are better ways to change the pressure by replacing the spring, but the cheap way works for me.
When I first shreached the spring I was getting 21 PSI out of the pump. I adjusted the spring to 14 PSI. Under a full load pulling a horse trailer the fuel pressure drops less than 1 PSI.
So far I'm really pleased using the Holly Blue.
I changed out the old lift pump when I reached 7 PSI idle, and 4 PSI WOT. After installing the Holly I did notice the truck seemed to be a little peppier. I could of been my imagination
Do put on the gagues and see where you are at before haveing to do anything.
The tweak you need to do is the streach the overflow spring. The pump is rated for 14 PSI but comes with 8 PSI pressure. There are better ways to change the pressure by replacing the spring, but the cheap way works for me.
When I first shreached the spring I was getting 21 PSI out of the pump. I adjusted the spring to 14 PSI. Under a full load pulling a horse trailer the fuel pressure drops less than 1 PSI.
So far I'm really pleased using the Holly Blue.
I changed out the old lift pump when I reached 7 PSI idle, and 4 PSI WOT. After installing the Holly I did notice the truck seemed to be a little peppier. I could of been my imagination
Do put on the gagues and see where you are at before haveing to do anything.
Another possibility is a Holly Red in line with the stock lift pump. Mount the Red close to the fuel tank. That'll put out 20-22 psi at idle, and never drop below 14-15 psi @WOT, even with larger injectors. The idle pressure is not high enough to damage the VP-44 injection pump, according to Bosch.
Originally posted by DaNuGuy
Ryan, is this a new or used set up? What do you mean by "tweaked" pump?
Thanks, Steve.
Ryan, is this a new or used set up? What do you mean by "tweaked" pump?
Thanks, Steve.
With the set up on my truck I idle at 19, cruise at 16, and drop to about 10 psi WOT.
I'm running the Holly Blue pump in place of my lift pump. I have not been running too long on it yet. It works great!
The tweak you need to do is the streach the overflow spring. The pump is rated for 14 PSI but comes with 8 PSI pressure. There are better ways to change the pressure by replacing the spring, but the cheap way works for me.
When I first shreached the spring I was getting 21 PSI out of the pump. I adjusted the spring to 14 PSI. Under a full load pulling a horse trailer the fuel pressure drops less than 1 PSI.
So far I'm really pleased using the Holly Blue.
I changed out the old lift pump when I reached 7 PSI idle, and 4 PSI WOT. After installing the Holly I did notice the truck seemed to be a little peppier. I could of been my imagination
Do put on the gagues and see where you are at before haveing to do anything.
The tweak you need to do is the streach the overflow spring. The pump is rated for 14 PSI but comes with 8 PSI pressure. There are better ways to change the pressure by replacing the spring, but the cheap way works for me.
When I first shreached the spring I was getting 21 PSI out of the pump. I adjusted the spring to 14 PSI. Under a full load pulling a horse trailer the fuel pressure drops less than 1 PSI.
So far I'm really pleased using the Holly Blue.
I changed out the old lift pump when I reached 7 PSI idle, and 4 PSI WOT. After installing the Holly I did notice the truck seemed to be a little peppier. I could of been my imagination
Do put on the gagues and see where you are at before haveing to do anything.
OK. Now I'm up to speed. I've found the pumps at Summit and, convientently, they are labeled by color. Now Summit also has a pump, billet alum, etc. 140 gph @18psi, $110. Whatcha think about that?
Thanks all.
PS. I put a pressure guage on the frontmost port of the filter housing and it seems my lp is low. I have 4 psi when cold, revving it drops to 0, 1 psi when warm. I didn't have enough lenght to see it while driving but I'm sure it's lower than at idle. I just bought this truck last week...it's going back for sure. As far a performance goes, it runs good. It does seem to flatten out above 2k rpm. How long until the IP goes south?
Thanks all.
PS. I put a pressure guage on the frontmost port of the filter housing and it seems my lp is low. I have 4 psi when cold, revving it drops to 0, 1 psi when warm. I didn't have enough lenght to see it while driving but I'm sure it's lower than at idle. I just bought this truck last week...it's going back for sure. As far a performance goes, it runs good. It does seem to flatten out above 2k rpm. How long until the IP goes south?


