Not necessary... but your choice. The 95 gph pump will handle all the HP a 24v 2nd Gen can throw at it! The 150 gph will work equally well for you.

RJ

 

I'm running the Smarty and RV275's and cannot pull my 95 GPM FASS HPFP down past 16 PSI. Solid as a rock for me.

 

I've got to agree with post recomending the MITUSA pump from opieparts.com. (Or a RASP pump which is almost identical)

I HAD A FASS SYSTEM. It was installed by advanced diesel technology. The pump was great for about a year. 17psi at idle, and couldn't pull it below 14psi wide open. I was very happy with it. Then, with no warning, it left me in a kmart parking lot with no fuel pressure. The company stood behind the product, but in the end, it failed completely (i.e. i had no fuel pressure and couldn't get it to run) 4 different times, this over about a 3year period. One time the pump was replaced, once it was a check ball of a different size that fixed it(they supplied part, i did work), and 2 times it was just new brushes that were needed (i had to buy the brushes). Maybe the new ones are better, but THEY ARE STILL ELECTRICAL and after the experiences i've had with electrical fuel pumps, I really think mechanical is the way to go.

Like was said in an earlier post, both the MITUSA and the RASP mechanical pumps give you two completely independant fuel systems. If the mechanical (which becomes the primary) somehow fails (which is far less likely then an electrical one failing) you still have your stock system which kicks in the minute the hobbs switch detects low fuel pressure. You just can't beat it.

Do yourself a favor and at least research it before you make up your mind.

What can it hurt to look into the mechanical options?

Your decision and your money... just my opinion.

Chris

 

Could you elaborate a little more about the new motors or direct me to a site to find out more. I checked the original F.A.S.S. site but didn't find out much.

Thanks,
Alan

 

Sure. The older motors we used had brushes that the customer could service. The brushes relied on a pressure contact to the brush slide to transfer power to the motor armature. What would happen is that corrosion would build up at this connection and the motor would slow down or run intermittently. Not unlike a dirty Batt terminal and a your truck not starting. Many would mistake the issue for the brushes being bad and replace them (Which was not always necessary). This would work for a while, but due to not cleaning the brush recess contacts in the motor, the issue would sometimes come back. (Like changing your Batt terminals without cleaning the Batt posts if you can follow) I have found a simple cleaning with some Scotch Brite pad from 3M works wonders on the brushes and contacts in the motor. Then seal the caps with a touch of silicone.

The new motors are now 100% hard wired from the plug to the motor armature. Granted this means that the customer can not replaces the brushes but this eliminates the corroded connection issue completely. We have yet to see a new motor cause issue due to brushes. And the brushes are ware tested under full load to last for 10,000 to 15,000 hrs. The new motors have been in service since the middle of last year.

 

Thanks for the information about the new motors.

And Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.