Sounds like the isolator is the weak link. (IMO) the less parts in a system the higher the reliability, as long as you use quality parts.

 

In most, States, probably all, it is illegal to run any type of flammable or combustible liquid into the pasenger area of a vehicle. Now I doubt that a trooper/cop is going to check to see if you have an isolator on your fuel gauge.

But I guarantee you, should you have the misfortune of having a vehicle fire, that investigator for the insurance company will find the source of the fire and if you have done something illegal, your claim just went bye bye.

 

I'd move my FP gauge outside the cab before I'd run an isolator if the above concern was a priority for me...

JMO

 

I can't tell you the amt of troubleshooting calls we get on our systems that are solved by finding air in an isolators! Its not normally the isolator its self causing the issues. Rather, its fluid leaking out of the numerous pipe fittings required to reduce down to the 1/8 NPT that is needed to tap to the gauge line. Folks either don’t take the time to use thread sealant, or don’t bleed out all the air. Heck I have even took my time on a few installs (to make sure they are done 100% correct) and still had them come back on me leaking coolant.

I for one run, unisolated diesel into my cab. I have an inline needle valve that i use for an emergency cut off and snubber.

 

Unfortunately DieselDan, I'm one of those schmucks you mentioned While I used #2 sealant on all the fittings, made sure all fittings were tight, and bled all air out of the line to the gauge, I still had the fitting at the isolator output come loose and slowly leak coolant out of the line. I didn't see any air in the line under the hood, so I thought it was ok, but when I pulled my gauge pod off the a-pillar to replace the speaker in there, I found mostly air in the line. Let me tell you, those little 1/8" lines are a pain to fill and blead. If it happens again, I'm getting a needle valve and some SS line and getting rid of the isolator.

 

How long is your section of fuel line?

I just picked up a mechanical gauge for my 99 and i have the push lock hose with the Schrader valve tapped into the fitting directly on the VP44 (replaced the banjo factory bolts).

I want to install my gauge in my truck right on the steering wheel or in the pillar. Either way i have to purchase another gauge pod.

I found this but don't think it will be long enough.

 

6', the gauge is mounted just above the 4x4 shift lever and the other end is connected to the FF canister (outlet side)

 

Same setup here as Ratsun's but I used non-braided Teflon. Just plain, clear 1/8" Teflon line. One year since, have not had any issues. I think I used about 4' of line. My gauge is also right above the transfer case shifter (there are photos in my sig).

 

thanks guys. I am going to pick some up today.

 

Regular plastic hose to mechnical gauge on steering column. Since I had the FASS installed needle stays steady. Bought a pipe plug to fit line fitting and keep a wrench in the truck in case of a leak. It can't leak too much until I can pull over and cap it off.

 

I've run without an isolator for 5 years. Been pulled over at least twice, and never arrested for having fuel in the cab. Just lucky I guess!

Seriously. Use a needle valve and use some good stainless braided line and it'll be fine.

 

I am running with out an isolator too. SS tubing to the gauge in the lower part of the dash. If it leaks it's only on the carpet. Use quality fittings & tubing & don't sweat it. If it were illeagal wouldn't they pick it up on the yearly state inspection?