Dave88LX

Some of you have been following along and helping out with my issues with my injector pump on my '97 2500 ( https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=126586 )

Here's the cliff notes up 'til this point:
- Governor lever arm bolt/nut backed out, fell down inside pump
- Pump locked up, could not press pedal
- Fished out bolt & washer, could not find nut
- Removed pump, brought to diesel injection shop, fished out nut
- Replaced pump, set timing, fires right up

Currently:
- Stock governor springs, but revs to 3500+ RPM
- Stalls out off-idle, even in first. Must give fuel manually (pedi-ally? )...not getting enough fuel
- When coming to stop, let foot off fuel pedal, press in clutch, RPM dips down to 200-300, usually stalling
- Does the same even when driving if I let RPM's get this low

I spoke with both the diesel injection shop, Marty Thompkins, and those helping in this thread. Conclusion:
- Problem lies in governor assy, nut or bolt probably beat something up, or bent something

Options:
- Remove pump, have diesel injection shop fix pump for ~$400
-- Pros: Cheap, fast, no core
-- Cons: I still have a 291K mile pump (mileage unknown); half the cost of a stock rebuilt pump

- Buy replacement rebuilt from Napa or other reputable source for ~$1000
-- Pros: Fresh pump, no miles
-- Cons: Still a stock pump; have to turn in my pump for core

- Jannetty Racing has a pump he talk to me about to sell, it's a modified pump, will make (or support? e-mail is at work) 350HP if I remember right, as it is. Has a 3600 GSK, delivery valves, internally modified etc. I'd have to get more info from him. Cost would be ~$1900, NO core either
-- Pros: Fresh pump, no miles, modified, I wouldn't have to put any more money into it, ready to go; could probably sell my pump for a decent penny to offset cost?
-- Cons: Most expensive option; what else?


So there's the Cliff-Notes. Can you provide any information about Jannetty Racing? I searched on here but haven't found much. I believe he's a sponsor over on TDR though.

ratsun

FWIW heres what I would do
Send it to PDR and have them rebuild your pump, you can have it beefed up or just freshend. That way you keep your 215hp pump

Mcmopar

Send it to Scheid Diesel and have them go through it, and improve it!!

haloman

I agree with this but there are alot of shops out there too. I would recommend Schieds. I think it all depends on your eventual power goals.

Dave88LX

Let me throw this into the mix -- I'm driving from TX to Mass on Wednesday, so time is a factor. I was thinking we could just drive it as-is with the idle turned up, but the ole lady (young lady) said she doesn't want to take chances. She handed me her credit card, and said get whatever I need to make sure it's ready and reliable.

Do you reccomend Scheid's and PDR over Jannetty? Or is it just what you guys are familiar with? Thing I like about the Jannetty pump is it sounds like it already has done what I would want done to mine, and it's ready to ship. Not defending the Jannetty pump by any means It's just a lot of money to throw down, and I want to know the "why's" of it...if you will.

Whatever I get, I will probably have it overnighted.

Mcmopar

Have you ever gone for a ride or driven a Scheid "tuned" 12 valve? IMO, they have to be one of the best.

Dave88LX

Nah I haven't. Haven't been in any turned-up 12V yet. I just got off the phone with PDR and got a ton of info from them, Mark was wicked helpful. Going to give Scheid's and Jannetty a call here now, and post up what I'm told. PDR reccomended that I double-check the height of my governor springs to make sure they're both close to .050" just to make sure. Good advice.

No answer right now at Jannetty or Scheid's.

Here's what PDR had to say. For $1750 he can build me a pump that will put out 500-550cc's, support 700+ HP with the right turbo setup. Stock delivery valves, I was surprised, you see so many people on here swapping out their DV's, he said the 181's (stock) are good for quite a bit. Said that pump with new DV's will do 600+ cc's. To compare, with a TT or large turbo setup, to obtain 500 HP, you need 335cc's.

Being that my pump is a little buggered up, I'd give it up for core, then have to pay extra to fix whatever was broken inside it, because according to some Bosch such and such, things can't be bent back into place of course, and I guess they only take fully functioning pumps as core. Not like a rusty old brake caliper I guess huh? Does kinda suck having to pay for the pump plus fixing my old one.

Forrest Nearing

well, don't talk to Bosch such and suches...

12valve

have you tried backing off the gov springs yet, like PDR said?

Dave88LX

That's what PDR said, basically saying that they had to charge me to fix whatever was wrong with the core that I sent into them, if something was bent or whatever. They can't just bend it back, have to replace it. I guess that's to protect them from having to pour money into thrashed pumps?


I'm about to go check out the governor springs now.

12valve

ok.. we'll be waiting.

man i hate everytime I see a P-pump problem posted by Dave88LX.

i feel sorry for you, that you're in the states where fixing pumps is sooo expensive! how far are you away from El Paso? or from seminole?

Dave88LX

It's becoming pretty common now isn't it. I'm sorry about having so many threads about it, just trying to keep updated with the different problems. Hey...at least it's not a starwheel or BHAF thread.

Well I popped it open and measured, .050" on one side, .042" on the other, oh well. I mis-measure the first time and thought the nut was about all the way backed out, I got so excited. Oh well.


Expensive for sure. I thought the one on my F-250 was expensive at like $350! They want my first-born child for these things!!! El Paso is about 450 miles away (6 1/2 hours), why what's out there? Not much from what I saw driving through it.

I guess now I'll button it all back up and make some more phone calls in the morning.

Dusty Ratcliff

have you considered pulling it apart yourself for an inspection??? I had to pull the gov. cover off the pump on my old 97' after I broke the 2nd timing pin off in it!! LOL anyway it's really pretty simple to pull the gov. cover off the back & check to see if the pointer is bent, I was told that the pointer being bent is the most common problem if a timing pin is broken off & left?? mine survived breaking 2 pins though!!! seems like the shop that pulled it apart could have checked everything out for ya while they were inside? also where is your idle at when the truck is just sitting & running???? if it's a problem that can't be resolved w/out bringing in the big guns I'd definatly give Piers a call, I've heard good things about the other above mentioned shops, but Mark was awfully helpful when I was having my own pump problems, the help that they gave me regardless of whether I'd spent thousands with them is worth alot to me!!! they could have easily just gave me the old "send it to us & we'll fix it" line, but instead they were very gracious in talking me through my fix, good luck whatever ya decide, Dusty

Dave88LX

I honestly wouldn't know what to look for once I got it apart. The guy at the diesel injection shop that was showing me another pump that was in pieces, looks pretty complicated to take apart, it's not just a cover, but has pins and crap?

I wouldn't know what to look for to bend back straight...My idle was around 800-850. I turned it up to about 1000 so it would stop dropping down on me. Just a temp fix.

joefarmer

I would pull the governor springs out another click. It sounds like they're a click or 2 too tight.

brandon.