Cummins shop near me said their shop rate was $100 per hour,
so 2.5 hours = $250.
Still sounds steep to me.

 

there is a guy up near me that works at the chrysler dealer during the day that will put them in for a $100 and stand behind his work all day long. seems lil high for me. im havin him put mine in here in a month and jus watchin him so i know how to do it next time.

 

I think doing them yourself and learning about your engine is worth twice the money you'd pay to have it done.
What I learned doing mind:
1) Removing valve cover is a PITA and the firewall cover makes a lot of dust when the bolt head scratches it, need to be careful or valve train will get dust in it.
2) Pilling injectors out is easy with a bolt and needle nose pliers.
3) Removing connector tubes can be done gently with a screwdriver to pry them out of the o-ring seal, then by hand. They do not have to come out completely...
4) ...but replacing O-rings on them will save you a hassle of detecting a leak in the return path after engine shutdown.
5) 6th cylinder line is not that big a deal with a crow foot wrench, but tightening it with a torque wrench is hard, the wrench would have to be real short. I ended up eye-balling the torque on that one line.
-P

 

I duct taped the firewall insulation above the valve cover so that it wouldn't tear as easily. It seemed to minimize the amount of dirt that got in the engine, but I know that some did. It's all but impossible to yank that cover and not get *some* dirt in there.

jmo

 

No the copper washer on the injector nozzle. It slides off the nozzle at the worst time. The connector tube oring, you have to cut off the old one and slide the new one on. The rubber o-rings stick to the cylinder head and little parts of oring start to break down on the injector pull. Thats where the fuel leaks start. Grease helps to seal it up better. The adjuster nut is at the end of the injector lines that you thread back into the cylinder head. You have to wiggle out the connector tube that's seated in the injector, or else you score the injector body. It also bends/damages the tip of the connector tube and causes fuel leaks. Taking your time and using fresh new parts work better than slamming injector speed test. Fuel leaks hurt your power numbers and your pocket. An extra minute or two to fix future leaks, is worth it. I've done a few injectors pulls that dripped fuel.

 

Me and a buddy plan to tackle this tommorrow. After some thought I'm not so intimidated, and think its really something that we can do. I appreciate everyones help and and the tips! Deffinitely think they'll come in handy. I'll post back when its all said and done.