Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Htt turbo installed.

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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:59 PM
  #16  
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Originally Posted by Tate
Something I've been wondering about here is how drive pressures are going to contribute to head gasket failures? Boost pressure ultimately affects cylinder pressures, which seems to me would be the cause of the head gasket loses. But drive pressures in the 60psi range are very little in comparison to cylinder pressures. I understand how it could float valves and blow out valve seals, but I'm not grasping the concept of headgasket failures through higher drive pressures.
Me, too. IMO, high drive pressure can only take its toll when it's significantly higher than boost, which is a bad situation to begin with.

If you get DP much higher than MAP, then you'll have flow reversion, and really high EGTs from the lack of fresh air.

IMO, the engine doesn't care if you are forcing high pressure air in from the exhaust or the intake-- both are somewhat capable of increasing cylinder pressures.

That said, the relatively inert exhaust wouldn't really support combustion like fresh air would, hence it can't contribute as much to peak cylinder pressures.

I personally think that boost pressure is a bigger factor than DP, but neither is as big as timing...

JMO
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #17  
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From: Red Deer, Alberta
I had noticed with the boost elbow that the boost would take longer to drop off between shifts. This is why I was wondering if a boost elbow would benifit or not?
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 09:29 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by clutch1
depends which turbo you have. on the 71 series you just turn the nut on the actuator arm, on the HTB2 you use the supplied shop air.
Well clutch1,since this thread started out about the 62/14, one would think thats the turbo were talking about
If we were talking about the 71 series, your information would be usefull here.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 01:24 AM
  #19  
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From: fredericksburg, virginia
Originally Posted by tony597fitter
Well clutch1,since this thread started out about the 62/14, one would think thats the turbo were talking about
If we were talking about the 71 series, your information would be usefull here.
Don't drink the hateraide! Good info clutch1 =P
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #20  
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From: Hills of West Virginia
Originally Posted by tony597fitter
Well clutch1,since this thread started out about the 62/14, one would think thats the turbo were talking about
If we were talking about the 71 series, your information would be usefull here.
Hey Tony, the 62/14 can be in the 65 or 71 series, so their both applicable here.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:34 AM
  #21  
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Yes I know. But this thread is about the HTB2 62/14.
The HTB2 and the HT71 turbos are two completly different tubos.
All that was said in my 1st post was to turn the boost up a little, because the 40psi from HTT, just doesnt seem to clear the smoke to well IMHO.
Then, of course the thread went haywire from there. It turned into a who seems to know more about turbos.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #22  
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i didnt catch where he mentioned it was an HTB2 must have missed it, sorry I think.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 08:53 AM
  #23  
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From: Hills of West Virginia
Originally Posted by tony597fitter
Yes I know. But this thread is about the HTB2 62/14.
The HTB2 and the HT71 turbos are two completly different tubos.
All that was said in my 1st post was to turn the boost up a little, because the 40psi from HTT, just doesnt seem to clear the smoke to well IMHO.
Then, of course the thread went haywire from there. It turned into a who seems to know more about turbos.
Nobody mentioned HTB2 till clutch1 did. Not arguing just clarifying.
Turbine size was never specified.

Originally Posted by clutch1
i didn't catch where he mentioned it was an HTB2 must have missed it, sorry I think.
The reason why you didn't catch it was because it wasn't there to catch.
So you didn't miss it and no need to be sorry.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #24  
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From: Texas/Oklahoma Border
Originally Posted by HOHN
..That said, the relatively inert exhaust wouldn't really support combustion like fresh air would, hence it can't contribute as much to peak cylinder pressures.
Don't have your knack for analysis...but I think that point could be argued either way!
For example.. What about the temp of the reverted exhaust gas at say WOT? Wouldn't that increase cylinder air temp and therefore cylinder pressure?

Probably a subject for a different thread!

RJ
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #25  
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Since we're off-track already...

Let's think of it inthe context of combustion energy. What are the components of energy? Well, there's potential energy, kinetic energy, and chemical energy. Chemical energy is really a form of potential energy (which is the diesel fuel).

Anyway, let me head that long post off at the pass and just head down this route: does EGR increase power or decrease it? It decreases. Does cooler intake air increase power or decrease it? To the point where efficient combustion still occurs, it increases it.

Power output is a direct function of cylinder pressure, so hotter air means less peak pressure (which is all we care about with HG life).

JMO-- I'd have to try pretty hard to actually "prove" it, and I'm not sure I could.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 04:13 PM
  #26  
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From: Tempe, Az
Originally Posted by ramroamer
REcently installed the new turbo, the results are dramatic. Takes a little longer to spool than stock but when it lights i'm gone. Smokes more until turbo hits but the smoke is real controllable with the juice. I only tow my dirtbikes but egt's are 200degrees cooler and the will barely hit 1250. Would recomend this turbo highly. Still getting an average of 18mpg and havin fun.
Glad to hear you like it i was considering almost that exact same setup. but what about your tranny is it stock?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:46 PM
  #27  
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From: Minnesota area/Fargo
Originally Posted by Big Blue24
There is no magic to a boost elbow, an adjustable elbow just has a tiny set screw that allows you to meter how much air will flow through it to the diaphram. If diaphram never gets enough air to overpower the spring, the wastegate will never open and your turbine wheel in the exhaust side will always get full exhaust flow pushing it.
Neglecting the fact that high drive pressures can push open the wastegate flapper, a boost elbow is poor way to go. As stated it strictly restricts the flow to the wastegate line through a tiny orfice, BUT if the boost pressure was there long enough the pressures on both sides(of the elbow) would balance and the wastegate would open. But most of the time the boost is not there long enough, hence why they work.

The best way to adj. wastegate IMO, is what I did. Use a adj. pressure switch wired with a 3 way manifold valve in your wastegate line so when your below your set point the wastegate side is open = 0 pressure, then with an instant of breaking your set point full pressure hits the wastegate opening it instantly. Put the switch in your cab and adjust on the fly!!

Just my $.02
tim.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 11:11 PM
  #28  
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
The adjustable (and non adjustable) elbows I've seen have a bleed off hole so the pressures won't balance out.
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