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Htt turbo installed.

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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Htt turbo installed.

REcently installed the new turbo, the results are dramatic. Takes a little longer to spool than stock but when it lights i'm gone. Smokes more until turbo hits but the smoke is real controllable with the juice. I only tow my dirtbikes but egt's are 200degrees cooler and the will barely hit 1250. Would recomend this turbo highly. Still getting an average of 18mpg and havin fun.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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If you like it now. Turn up the boost a bit, its much better. Mine was boosting between 40-42psi when I first got it. I put an adjstable boost elbow in and now Im at 48psi. It clears the smoke much better.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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Tony, now that you put the boost elbow in, does it spool faster or hold the boost pressure longer between shifts? I noticed mine drops boost pressure pretty quick vs my HX35 with a boost elbow??? What do you think??
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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So many people out there thing that a boost elbow is magical! It does nothing but simply plug the line that feeds a diaphram. This diaphram has a spring on the other side that forces the waste gate shut. Once enough pressure is placed on the diaphram... enough to overpower the spring... the wastegate... a small metal door... opens and allows exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel and simply go out the exhaust without powering the turbo system. So NO, a boost elbow will not affect boost drop between shifts other than you might be at 50 psi before the shift as opposed to 40 psi.

There is no magic to a boost elbow, an adjustable elbow just has a tiny set screw that allows you to meter how much air will flow through it to the diaphram. If diaphram never gets enough air to overpower the spring, the wastegate will never open and your turbine wheel in the exhaust side will always get full exhaust flow pushing it.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
So many people out there thing that a boost elbow is magical! It does nothing but simply plug the line that feeds a diaphram.
True! But on a high mileage stock turbos the elbow...or better yet a manual boost controller... can eliminate the premature partial opening of a wastegate!
And on overfueled CTD, it can help by cleaning up exhaust haze. Can feel like magic in right circumstance.
But neither of these advantages are the subject of this thread!

RJ
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
There is no magic to a boost elbow, an adjustable elbow just has a tiny set screw that allows you to meter how much air will flow through it to the diaphram. If diaphram never gets enough air to overpower the spring, the wastegate will never open and your turbine wheel in the exhaust side will always get full exhaust flow pushing it.
dont think thats what he was asking. im sure we all know how they work. like RowJ said, the controller's can do wonders on a stocker, i know it did on mine.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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The elbow shouldn't make a difference in boost loss between shifts. It is just letting the turbo hit a higher boost peak, under load(throttle).

It is nice when you want to set your boost limit, and not worry about popping head gaskets, too.
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Old Jul 8, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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I just put the elbow on mine to clear up some of the smoke the 370s were letting out. NOW, the 435s are a different animal, they never want to clear.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:34 AM
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If you like your headgasket in one piece I would not be turning the boost up to 45+ psi on a stock head without studs or o-rings or some other protection for the gasket.

I know its not just boost, its drive pressure and cylinder pressures, and that 45psi from a stock turbo is much different and more dangerous to the HG than 45psi from a larger free flowing 62/14...but I was running no more than 42psi when my HG let go with the B1 (62/14). By the time I added o-rings, studs, a new HG, and all the related machine work done to the head...I was into it for about $1800.

Just a word of warning, play at your own risk fellas.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24
So many people out there thing that a boost elbow is magical! It does nothing but simply plug the line that feeds a diaphram. This diaphram has a spring on the other side that forces the waste gate shut. Once enough pressure is placed on the diaphram... enough to overpower the spring... the wastegate... a small metal door... opens and allows exhaust to bypass the turbine wheel and simply go out the exhaust without powering the turbo system. So NO, a boost elbow will not affect boost drop between shifts other than you might be at 50 psi before the shift as opposed to 40 psi.

There is no magic to a boost elbow, an adjustable elbow just has a tiny set screw that allows you to meter how much air will flow through it to the diaphram. If diaphram never gets enough air to overpower the spring, the wastegate will never open and your turbine wheel in the exhaust side will always get full exhaust flow pushing it.

I'm with you on this. Why buy an adjustable wastegated turbo if you're just going to override it with another gadget. The adjustable wastegate is there so you can adjust the point at where the turbo begins to bypass exhaust to control boost at a set point. . You want more boost you adjust the setting. You want less bosst, you adjust the setting. I have alsways been baffled by talk of these orificed elbows on adjustable wastegated turbos. Adjustable bieng the operative word.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by getblown5.9
If you like your headgasket in one piece I would not be turning the boost up to 45+ psi on a stock head without studs or o-rings or some other protection for the gasket.

I know its not just boost, its drive pressure and cylinder pressures, and that 45psi from a stock turbo is much different and more dangerous to the HG than 45psi from a larger free flowing 62/14...but I was running no more than 42psi when my HG let go with the B1 (62/14). By the time I added o-rings, studs, a new HG, and all the related machine work done to the head...I was into it for about $1800.

Just a word of warning, play at your own risk fellas.
Something I've been wondering about here is how drive pressures are going to contribute to head gasket failures? Boost pressure ultimately affects cylinder pressures, which seems to me would be the cause of the head gasket loses. But drive pressures in the 60psi range are very little in comparison to cylinder pressures. I understand how it could float valves and blow out valve seals, but I'm not grasping the concept of headgasket failures through higher drive pressures.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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I believe that higher drive pressures (Turbine Inlet Pressures) promote poorer cylinder 'evacuation' which in turn increases cylinder pressures!

RJ
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pokapotato
I'm with you on this. Why buy an adjustable wastegated turbo if you're just going to override it with another gadget. The adjustable wastegate is there so you can adjust the point at where the turbo begins to bypass exhaust to control boost at a set point. . You want more boost you adjust the setting. You want less bosst, you adjust the setting. I have alsways been baffled by talk of these orificed elbows on adjustable wastegated turbos. Adjustable bieng the operative word.
Then why does Industrial Injection put them on their adjustable wastegated turbos?
Lets hear the answer for this one.
Its easier to put the elbow on than put 45-50psi of shop air to the wastegate and try to adjust from there.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Originally Posted by pokapotato
Why buy an adjustable wastegated turbo if you're just going to override it with another gadget. The adjustable wastegate is there so you can adjust the point at where the turbo begins to bypass exhaust to control boost at a set point. . You want more boost you adjust the setting. You want less bosst, you adjust the setting. I have alsways been baffled by talk of these orificed elbows on adjustable wastegated turbos. Adjustable bieng the operative word.

Because of the way the wastegate operates. When you adjust the actuator rod, you are adjusting the preload on the spring. At the extremes, you lose precision in the boost control because of lack of WG travel.

A manual boost controller is an elegant and simple way to improve your control over WG operation. They're also cheap and much easier to adjust than the actuator rod.

JMO
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tony597fitter
Its easier to put the elbow on than put 45-50psi of shop air to the wastegate and try to adjust from there.
depends which turbo you have. on the 71 series you just turn the nut on the actuator arm, on the HTB2 you use the supplied shop air.
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