bigd450

I got my ARP head studs and plan on putting them in soon, I did lots of searching and still am a little confused on the best procedure.

I don’t plan on taking the head off and don’t plan on bottom tapping unless I need to.

So I plan on doing one at a time. There are ten studs that are longer, were do they go? So I do one at a time do I do it in increments like 30-60-90-120 then do the next one? Or what is the head torqued to from the factory should I take the new stud just a little higher, then do another stud to the same torque and then the rest of them? Then do it again to all of them increments from there up to 120? Does that make any sense?

Also do you usally need to adjust the valves after this.

blackdiesel

IMO, no need to bottom tap, yes one at a time, their for the outside, just take them to 120 with lube provided. The rocker arms have to be taken off, so yes the valves will have to adjusted.

Troutstrannysvc

Dunno about on a 24V but I highly recommend tapping them. Makes the job go a LOT easier.
Anyways, once you get them all in you torque them in the increments that is recommended then you finish up with what you perfer #120, or higher.
Example - Torque ALL the studs to XX ft lbs, then step two; torque all the studs to XX ft lbs, ect ect.

Altho I don't recommend not changing the HG but hope all goes well for you.

blackdiesel

Since your doing them one at a time, and the bolts are all at 90 now, you just put the stud in and torque them to 120. OR you could call ARP, and ask their tech how to do it. You will get ALL kinds of advice on the web and from shop to shop for that matter. So be your own judge.

dzlfarmboy

They way we do them if it's the stock Head gasket and not o rings and you plan on doing them 1 at a time. Is remove one, put in the new one all the way down till it stops, back off 1/4-1/2 turn. Put lots of ARP lube on the threads and top and bottom of washer. Take it right to 110lbs. And do all of them 1 at a time. Once their all swaped out go around and hit them all to 125lbs starting from the center out. Might have to grind a little of the valve cover in on the front 2 studs if you dont bottom tap the threads.

Brett

John_P

In addition to what Brett said, I recommend sucking all the holes out to remove any fluid that might be in there. If there is oil, water, anti-freeze or any other type of liquid in the bottom of that hole, it will not allow that stud to go all the way down into the block.

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John_P

dzlfarmboy

Yeah Good point john, And if it does blow, and you have to pull the head and tap them then, you really not out much but a lil time.

bigd450

Excellent thats what I was looking to know thanks.

mean.green.ram

i dont mean to open a can of worms but isn't the proper way to install head studs would be to completly remove the stock head bolts in the specified recomended removal sequince replace the stock head gasket with w/e new gasket you want to run inspect and check the head and block then tap the block holes to remove any rust or foriegn matieral clean the holes oil the studs make sure the head guides are in place set the head on the block then instal the studs all the way in then back 1/2 turn then instal the washers and nuts and then start the proper torque sequince

John_P

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I was surprised to see this thread come back up again.

As the Members have stated here, there are a bunch of different ways/methods/theories on how head studs should be installed in our trucks. Your recommendations look fine, but I think you are doing it by removing the entire head and most of the input here I believe was trying to do the easiest way without removing the head.

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John_P

mean.green.ram

ok i didnt see the easyest way as a title but ok sorry

John_P

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No problem at all Sir!

bigd450

I am too.

Well since it's resurface I might as well give some feed back. Doing the studs the way I did was definitely the easiest way but not especially the best. As I eventually ended up blowing the headgasket and redoing everything a couple months later anyway. But there was also some contributing factors for it blowing. One when I first put the Adrenaline in, it would only show a max boost 30-32psi and I put it in along with the studs. So I thought I had a boost leak and was adjusting the wastegate and even clamped it off and gave it everything it had on level 10. Ended up sending the adrenaline back because it would only read up to 32psi. So who knows what it was really hitting for psi but couldn't of been good. Also I was using the edge for a while and it would only read to 45psi and didn't know that either. So needless to say I wasn't very nice to the headgasket.

Got the headshaved and got everything back together and have been hitting 55psi quite often for the last couple moths and its been holding together good. I hope I just didn't jinx it now.

Bluedually4x4

I was wondering the samething, I am installing the head studs more for insurance than actually going to push the power and boost past 45 psi and keep it close to 500hp. So the general consensus is it is okay to just pull them one at a time and replace them?

John_P

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bigd:

Thanks alot for your input and update on your truck! I am sorry to hear about the problems you had, but as you said in your post, "who knows what you were really hitting on the boost!" But, it sounds like you are on the right track now. Glad to hear you got it all fixed.

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John_P