Ok Crew,

That BOMB Bug bit again!

I finally order my guages from DPP. I ordered set of DiPricols (white faced) - Fuel PSI 0-30, Boost 0-35 PSI, Pyro 0-1600*F, A-Pillar, and a can of the grey paint.

I've read about a years worth of this discussion. I would like to know where you guys are buying you needle valve for the fuel pressure guage. No. I didn't get the isolator I know they create problems... Also how would I hook up my fuel pressure guage in a POST filter position? Suggestions??? If to difficult I will take suggestions on PRE filiter setup...

Anyone that has pictures of there setup would be greatly wanted!

Please someone get me a BIG can of "Deep Wood's Off!" That bug has really bitten me this time!

 

I got my needle valve at Grainger, it has a 1/8" NPT (F) on one end and a 1/8" NPT (M) on the other end. Some people have got them at Napa, but the one I went to did not have any.
Check out Moose10's pictures for how he set up his post filter fuel pressure hook up.



I am doing mine the same way, except I had to get an elbow that has a male and female side (street ell) due to my needle valve having male and female ends. I ordered the tapped banjo and washers from Geno's Garage.

~Rob

 

Mopar1973man, I ordered gauges from dpp also this week. The isoltator for the fuel gauage was back ordered, still waiting....

 

hotdram,

That looks easy enough to do... I just got to order a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's. I pretty sure that I can get the needle valve at the hardware store or NAPA. I though it was different in design.

67HotRod,

I opted not to use the isolator becuase there has been several articles about problems of being acurate in pressure readings. Isolators have had problems with varied pressures and errors... The needle valve will allow me to shut it down if there is a problem plumbing wise... This is the most acurate way to hook up!

Anyone else with suggestions?!

 

Don't forget the washers. I ordered a few extra when I ordered mine.

~Rob

 

What's the point of installing the needle valve? Is it for the shutoff feature, or maybe reduction in diameter

I just got my Isspro FP gauge kit from PDR. It included an isolator, the brass elbows and adapters for Paraker Paraflex 1/8"OD x 0.026" wall tubing. Will this be OK if I decide to leave the isolator out and run diesel to the FP gauge? I didnt know with the isolator they use ethylene glycol on the 'isolated' side...I hate the smell of that crap, almost rather have diesel in the cab. Mmmm, diesel

 

The needle valve does a few things: it stops the guage from seeing the pulses from the IP, it lowers the VOLUME of fuel to gauge without affecting pressure as pressure is relative, and it gives you a OH SH*T!!!! handle for the fuel line incase of gauge/line failure. you should not smell either diesel or eg unless you have a problem, there are a fair number of people saying the isolator will not hold up in the ctd be it due to the pulsing or the diesel it just seems to be more failure prone.

 

Yep, run it without the isolator. The needle valve does allow for you to shut off fuel to the gauge IF it ever became necessary, and it allows for smooth operation of the gauge...protecting from any pulses in the big line. My needle valve is barely open to get a good reading. In fact when I first installed it, I left it closed at startup, and opened it just enough to get the gauge to react properly.

 

Do you run the fuel line right to the guage? How does it fit in the pod?

 

Moose10, I noticed you ran a big fat rubber fuel line from the needle valve (to the gauge?). I guess I'd be alright running the 1/8" OD plastic tubing from the needle valve all the way to the FP gauge?

 

Yes. I put my FP gauge at the bottom position of the A pillar mainly for ease of installation, but you could put it anywhere. I used a straight female 1/8" NPT to 1/4" ID push lock on the back of the gauge. It fits fine....plenty of clearance.

Renegade, I used 1/4" ID rubber 300psi rated hydraulic hose from NAPA. It's not overly large, and worked fine. I trust it more than the plastic tubing and connectors that go with it for running fuel to the gauge and into the cab, but I'm sure others have done it. IMO it's fine for boost gauges, but not for liquids. I'm really not concerned with a push lock connection leaking, but I put some small hose clamps on just to be sure