Dargo

After the modifications done to my truck, it seems to really drop off in power for a few seconds before it shifts. This happens at about 2200 to 2300 RPM. I was going to adjust the TPS to have it shift earlier, but was wondering if it wouldn't be better to install a 3000 RPM spring kit? I saw on Piers website that the kit is only $125. My question is, adjust the shifts sooner, or upgrade to the 3000K spring kit? Also, if I upgrade to the 3000K spring kit, what all is involved in the installation? i.e., is it an all day job, or an easy "no brainer"?

Rattlerattle

Not to bad to install if you are somewhat mechanically inclinded. Took me three hours but I did have to get a second smaller magnet.

GSK is an excellent bomb.

Jim Fulmer

Yea I remember my first one took 2+ hours also....now it's more like 45min.

With you current mods you are holding yourself back without at least a set of 3K's.....do it....do it now....you won'e believe the difference, no hp power gain but you will think it is.

Jim

hotmopr

I had the same problem with my truck. I put in the 3000 gsk and now it's all good. I did it myself and it took just about a hour and a half. I went in through the side. Just need a small magnet. and a way to turn the engine over by hand to line the springs up with the hole. I also got my kit from piers, they dont tell you that there are two sets to change in the pump just so you know...

Dargo

I have to buy two spring kits? Magnet? Man, I'm really confused now. I have not really worked on any diesel before this truck, but I have completely assembled every nut, bolt, spring, etc. on a complete frame off restoration of a '62 Biscayne. Other than the body and powertrain, everything on it has now been powder coated as well. Not to mention all nuts, bolts, and washers were either changed to stainless or steel wooled and clear coated. Oh yeah, I also changed the powertrain from the 235 6 cyl. to a 600+ HP 502ci with a built 400 w/ a 4500 stall, removed the carrier, balanced aluminum 4" shaft into a 4 link rear staying with the 12 bolt Chevy w/ 3:73's in it. I know that it is only a 3 speed trans, but I can go through all three gears in the length of the car. One of my biggest issues was to have a high performance aluminum four core radiator fabricated for it that would fit and still cool it. It took three tries to get enough cubic inches of surface area of radiator without having to move the battery to the trunk. Anyway, it's just this diesel thing is a new animal to me. I can't even get it warm enough in the winter to get the heater to work! Also, I'm not used to a vehicle having even dust on the undercarriage, let alone road grit, dirt and, heavens forbid, grease!

Got Smoke?

No, the 3000 GSK comes as two sets of springs in one "KIT" you just have to bar the motor over to replace the other set as they are 180* off from each other.

The magnent is to fish out any small shims and the retainers at the bottom of the stud.

Go in through the side and all will be well. My first time took me 3 hours because I was nervous as hell, and I ended up grinding a notch out of a pry bar to fit the retaining nut so I could better feel the "clicks" to set it back to. The second set I did, on a friends truck took about 30 minutes, but he already had the truck disassembled when I got there. I'm guessing I could do a GSK in about an hour to an hour and 1/2 with my new custom ground pry bar!

Easy BOMB, well worth it, just go ahead and do it!

hotmopr

Yea! What he said!! Sorry I left that out..

gwhammy

I just put the springs in mine, went in threw the top and it wasn't to bad of a job. I turned the motor over by the alt. nut first but to get it lined up perfect it takes two people, then I put a wrench on the fan nut and could watch the springs come up as it was turned up. The wrench seemed to work great. One other thing that helped was to get the big spring that you leave with 4000 kit out of the hole and I set it in the back of the pump while pulling all the odds and ends out of hole. A long set of needle nose pliers helped also. The little clicks are hard to feel too. Guess I got lucky as I realined the screwdriver slots where they was and the amount of stud sticking out came out right. Put the springs in and you won't be sorry!It's really not a bad job to do.

infidel

Hate to pop anyone's bubble but didn't notice much difference with the 3k on my auto. I wouldn't do it again. On my 5 speed I wouldn't be without it.

hotmopr

I thought it was one of the bombs that gave me the most improvement and fun, and I have a auto also...

Smokee

Yup, on my auto the difference was tremendous. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Cowhand

I also. Made a big difference in driveability, even with the stock trans.

Dargo

Thanks for the imput guys. I'm ordering the kit tomorrow. I'm definitely still very foggy on the installation, but I hope when I get the kit there are some instructions etc. Although I had my transmission, fuel pump mods, and timing professionally done, I changed the injectors and did the throttle plate myself with no problems at all. I'm just always nervous when going into unchartered waters for me on an upgrade. Hopefully this one won't be too bad.

Lil Mule

Patience and mechanical ability is all you need, oh yeah and few tools. It's not bad, just make sure to keep track of everything to be sure you don't drop anything into the pump.

Smokee

Dargo, if you did the throttle plate, you were 80% of the way to putting the springs in through the top. Remove the plate, turn the engine to get one set of springs at the top, unscrew the keeper making sure to count the clicks. Remove the springs, replace the springs, reinstall the keeper. Turn the engine and repeat.

If you do not have a barring tool, turn the engine with the alternator nut or with a screw driver through the dust cover.
Good luck.