OK, I finally got my gauges working, but not hooked up proper, just enough to see if everything works.. I have to exchange my Boost, & Pyro gauge.. I ordered the 7 color gauges from Glow Shift.. The gauges all work real good (Pyro, Boost, & Trans.), but the little button that changes the colors in the gauges of the Pyro & Boost aren't working, so they're sending me new ones, & I'll send these back once I get the replacement, therefor I didn't finalize the installation.. I must admit the colors are real nice.

I went for a test run, with the following results.. My speedometer is in Klm's. so 100 klm is 62 1/2 mph.. At 100 klm in Overdrive the pyro reads 650, & the Boost is 4... At 100 klm in drive Pyro reads 750, Boost is 9.. Idle Boost is 0, & pyro is 250 & a bit less. Trans temp 150..

This is on a 97, automatic, 4X4... Are these readings about right??
Haven't installed the plate or the 3 GSK yet.. If I put in the Boost elbow without installing the plate or the 3GSK, will I gain anything??

PS. forgot to mention my EGT sender is in the middle of the exhaust off center towards the front..

 

the egt's 'll get warmer on the last 3 cyl.'s

 

So should I redrill it & retap, & put a plug where it is now?? That would be closer to the firewall right??

 

It wouldn't be a bad idea to just be on the safe side. Cylinder #6 gets the hottest so if you don't mind doing it again I would. And yes, it's towards the firewall.



~Nick

 

So where exactly should I put it?? I was going by the photo on Pier's website.. They said 2" back, & 5/8" off center, either to the front or back of center..

 

Don't retap, I have mine closer to the front. I heard cyl #1 gets the hottest on a 12v, but now people are saying #6. So I don't know. Everything works just fine though.

 

Well from my understanding the reason the back of the block gets the hottest is because the coolant cools better up front than it does in the back. I could be wrong but it seems logical to me.

I don't think you'll have any issues, as I don't see it being THAT much different. But I guess I'm just a worry wart and don't want to chance and expensive motor. Here is where I tapped mine.........

 

I wouldn't bother changing it.

There is no magical one temperature that means you're killing your engine. Lower = better. I doubt the EGT guage has enough accuracy to really make much difference anyway.

It would make an interesting experiment, though, to install two EGT gauges - one front, one rear, see how they compare, then swap them (probes) to check for differences in guage apparatus. Of course... the holes could also be drilled slightly differently, etc., etc.

 

I saw those gauges on ebay, was considering them. Did they come with good directions and did everything fit well besides what you described earlier.

 

Thanks for the answers, I was going by the Piers website, & i figured they should be close.. I don't want to be running right on the borderline all the time anyway e.g. 1250 or 1300.

My other question was if I just put in the boost elbow and install the 10 plate a bit later, will I get any advantage by installing it alone without putting in the plate right now.. no time to do it till next month.

 

I think the boost elbow will allow more boost out of our turbo, you may see some benefits if you are pulling heavy. I think your gauges are fine and the pyro will work ust fine where you have it. All your readings look to be right on. Scotty

 

You will see no gain from installing just the boost elbow without a fuel plate. I have tried it myself. Right now your limiting factor is not the boost, it's the amount of fuel you can push. So even if you install the boost elbow, you won't see any increase in boost levels (or hp).

 

Yup, they fit well, except for those little metal brackets that go fro the backside to hold them tight against the Pillar mount.. there are 2 bolts on the back of the gauges, & the holes fit the bolts OK, just the bracket is a bit wide the way the pillar is formed, so they have to be rebent so they go down beside the gauges.. but I think that would happen with any gauge.. They work well, & are rather nice, & have 7 different colors in them, & the price is right..

 

Maybe I'm wrong but most pillar mounts don't use the metal brackets to secure the gauge. The gauge just presses into the hole. How are you going to change a bulb on a gauge now except having to take the pillar off?

 

Yup you're right.. I never thought of that.. Now that is the reason I joined this great forum.. My bad for overlooking that.. But you did save me, cause I haven't mounted anything permanent yet. The pillar is still laying on the dashboard till I get the replacement gauges from them.. Saved me a lot of work, rebending brackets to fit.. Wonder why they wouldn't put that tip in the instructions.. The one thing I don't like if they're only pressed in is the little moveable visors that comes with the gauges, unless I leave them off, because they would keep turning..
Thanks for the tip..