Gauge advice
Gauge advice
Well, I've had my truck a couple of weeks and I'm ready to install gauges (boost, pyro, fp & trans temp). I think I want to use a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator. Is this a good idea? Most three gauge kits I've seen will include an isolator which seems to be more expensive than the gauge itself. Should I just go for one of the kits or buy the gauges individually??
By the way, I'm going to install the vulcan lp relocation kit at the same time and use the provided fitting for the fp gauge.
Just trying to get some opinions.
Thanks
Brad
By the way, I'm going to install the vulcan lp relocation kit at the same time and use the provided fitting for the fp gauge.
Just trying to get some opinions.
Thanks
Brad
I like to go to one of the places that cater to Dogde CTD , becouse they know what your looking for , when I got mine it came with instructions and extra adapters & wiring that were added just for my truck and don't forget the last min. info that you might get while ordering, I haven't found a better price for the package and it been about 3mnt. I got mine from extreamdiesel perfermance in Wash. state, as for the fuel isolater , its worth it if you get a leak imagine trying to get ride of the smell of diesel in the cab.
bamadzl,
We sell a lot of fuel pressure guages and approx 70-80% of them get an isolator. The main reason is keeping the fuel smell out of the cab, plus the manufacturers of the gauges we stock(auto Meter, Isspro, DiPricol) will no warrant any gauge that smells like any kind of fuel etc. The isolator we sell has a flourelastomer membrane and is pretty tough when it comes to different kinds of fuels etc, while the gauge is not nearly so fuel resistant etc.
Give us a call if you have any questions etc.
Mark @ DPPI
We sell a lot of fuel pressure guages and approx 70-80% of them get an isolator. The main reason is keeping the fuel smell out of the cab, plus the manufacturers of the gauges we stock(auto Meter, Isspro, DiPricol) will no warrant any gauge that smells like any kind of fuel etc. The isolator we sell has a flourelastomer membrane and is pretty tough when it comes to different kinds of fuels etc, while the gauge is not nearly so fuel resistant etc.
Give us a call if you have any questions etc.
Mark @ DPPI
I've read where isolators frequently fail. I want to do this thing right, one time, and not worry about it. Are the isolators more reliable than I've been led to believe??
I' m running Autometer Ultra Lites. Check gallery for a picture.
Happy so far. I have Pyro, 60 PSI boost, and 15 PSI mechanical fuel pressure.
I am not running an isolator. I am using copper tubing, which seems to be working well.
If my mechanical gauge goes out, maybe I will try the 30 PSI electronic gauge. But $200 vs $38, I thought I'd try the mechanical one first.
Happy so far. I have Pyro, 60 PSI boost, and 15 PSI mechanical fuel pressure.
I am not running an isolator. I am using copper tubing, which seems to be working well.
If my mechanical gauge goes out, maybe I will try the 30 PSI electronic gauge. But $200 vs $38, I thought I'd try the mechanical one first.
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On a mechanical gauge, is the installation as simple as running one line from the gauge to a post filter fuel line??
On a copper line would you use standard compression fittings?
On a copper line would you use standard compression fittings?
Originally posted by bamadzl
I've read where isolators frequently fail. I want to do this thing right, one time, and not worry about it. Are the isolators more reliable than I've been led to believe??
I've read where isolators frequently fail. I want to do this thing right, one time, and not worry about it. Are the isolators more reliable than I've been led to believe??
That was 2.5 years ago-- no leaks or problems since.
I have a Hewitt gauge, designed to handle fuel right to the gauge.
justin
I've seen folks mount gauges in the in dash "cubby" below the passenger airbag switch. Where can this "cubby" mount be found. I've searched everywhere and can only find one for 3rd gens.
Brad
Brad
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