no honestly, i swear i couldn't find it.

that is exactly what i was looking for. how much would this cost ya think? i hope not too much.

as for the kit, there was one kit i found on the internet from vulcanperformance.com but he took it off the shelves b/c there was too many problems with the isolators that came with it.

now what size of banjo bolt and such will i need, or if i get the line will i just have to fit it to that? i figured that i'd go with the hydrolic line but what about a fuel line? either way i'll go with the 1/4 inch
sorry for being such a pain but i really wanna know how to do it right and i've obviously never done this b4.

 

and another thing, how long will the line have to be. i could always go with like 10' and cut it to size but i don't know if this will be too much or too little

 

A guage is around $40....and the bits and pieces should be well under that. Needle valve is like $5, banjo bolt is around $10...compared to replacing the VP-44 a guage setup costs NOTHING

For the line - that depends on where you mount your guage (I have no idea where you plan to mount yours)....

BTW, do NOT use teflon tape in your install.....permatex #2 will seal the threads and not damage your injector pump.

 

i agree with you on the cost of guage vs. the cost of a VP44. guage=way cheaper.

for the line, i was thinking of getting a pod to go on the steering column.

thanks for letting me know about the teflon tape, can the autoparts store hook me up with some of this permatex #2 you speak of, and what is that exactly, is it like teflon tape or what?

and also about using fuel line for the line, can i use that too or should i just stick with the recommendations you gave me?

 

Id do what Infidel recommends...1/8" DOT brake line with some 1/4" line over tip for abrasion resistance. Personally, I wouldnt go with the steering wheel pod....Id get a guage cup and mount it like Ratsun did....Do a search and check out his gallery.

Permatex #2 can be found at any autoparts store, Walmart may even have it. Or, you can use liquid teflon paste (its called Loctite PST)

 

dr. evil, why would you not get a pod on the steering column? any reason or just don't like the look? cause if you have no specific reason i'll get it cause i like the look of it.

 

For me, it looks like it blocks the other guages, plus it harder to run the fuel line to that location.

 

Kinda on topic...

If one were to use an oil pressure sending unit, do you think diesel would deteriorate it?

I was contemplating doing that to wire in a gauge. Just seems like a simpler fix, assuming the diesel does not destroy the sending unit and cause a short/fire

 

I tried an Stewart-Warner oil electrical oil pressure gauge for fuel and it didn't last very long. Don't know if other brands would have the same results. Never leaked but just stopped working.
Just go with a mechanical gauge and you won't have to worry about the sender.

 

I also had trouble finding a good list of parts to do this... So THANKS for posting the list and pictures. I think I've found sources for everything except the connection from the banjo tap to the isolator... Per this thread I'll look for a needle valve as a snubber. I may end up buying the isolator then figuring out what fittings are left and getting them at NAPA or somesuch... A question - why not use fuel line? SS seems like overkill... the other choices seem fine. Just need a coupla barbed fittings and springclamps?

 

FWIW I used 3/16's OD copper line covered with .25" ID hose between the needle valve and the guage. I first installed the line off the feed port at the VP and even with a needle valve I couldn't stop the gauge rattling from the pulses, it's a lot smoother if you take it off the bottom of the filter.

The only way fuel will get into the cab with my set up is if gauge itself leaks, it's a possibility but not likely.

 

i was wondering that same thing
i too would like to know why?

 

I ask the same question myself since I've been using 1/8" nylon line, the exact same kind that comes with boost gauges for close to ten years without a drip. Just shove it though some larger tubing to protect against cuts, kinks and abrasions.
I wouldn't use copper line though unless it's isolated from the engine with something flexible.

SS braided is a way overkill and when combined with vibration can saw though anything it touches.

 

Agree w/you on copper and SS braid.

For nylon in this application how do you terminate it and who carries the terminations? I'm thinking I can just walk into NAPA and ask for the parts...

 

You use the same fittings that a boost gauge uses, compression with a ferrule. Most any place that sells plumbing or autoparts has them. You can also buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge install kit from the auto parts that includes all the fittings and hose for around $10. I don't like the hose that comes with these kits myself, it's wound up in a tight ball and hard to work with. Prefer 1/8" air brake tubing sold by the foot at most autoparts.

The key to no leaks with compression fittings is not to over tighten.
Finger tight plus one turn of the wrench is plenty.