Hey guys i was wondering if anyone knew how long the line needs to be to go from the filter housing to the gauge pod (A-pillar) Also what diameter and fitting ends. i am going to be using braided stainless line.
Thanks

 

I used 6 feet of -4an stainless braided. 6' is all you should need. It was pretty thick to fish through to the pillar but I got it. However, I suggest you tap in at the banjo bolt, not at the top of the fuel filter housing. The ff housing is supposed to be for temporary readings. You'll also need a needle valve and 1/8" male npt to -4an adapter for the banjo bolt if you decide to go that route (given that your gauge has a -4an male fitting on the back like my Autometer). Found this old post I made:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=fuel+pressure

Use Permatex #2 on the threads for sealant and no need to prime the line to the gauge...

 

No need to use Permatex either. The AN fittings are designed to seal on their own. I've never used Permatex on an AN fitting and have never had any trouble.
All of this unless, of course u were talkin about the NPT fitting on the gauge adapter, but even then I would use Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope.
You can also use a -3 line, just make sure you get the right adapter.

 

And now in the other direction........don't use teflon tape...diesel fuel will make it crumble....not good to have in a fuel system. If you must use something to seal the threads, use the Permatex #2 like wcbcruzer said. That's what I used, they've never leaked, and it doesn't hurt anything.
Oh yeah, I used 6' of 1/4"ID hydraulic line from Napa.

 

Well, I guess I stand corrected.

 

all i used was boost line for mine

 

Boost line works fine, but with the stainlees braided line with the AN fittings, it's pretty much an idiot proof way of plumbing the fuel line without worry of a leak. About the only way to get an AN fitting to leak is to overtighten it or physically damage the fitting itself.

 

Don't forget to use the needle valve that wcbcruzer mentioned, or else the gauge will rattle like crazy as the 12 valve lift pump pulsates.

 

I would not recommend any sort of stainless line. It will rub a hole in any surface it touches. I had one on my truck and the line rubbed a hole through the casing and crossed the junction box off my battery on the lower inner fender. Talk about flames! Id recommend plastic boost line anyday.

 

Napa sells a copper line kit, very small diameter. You will not need a needle valve with this. I ran the line through the wire harness boot under the steering column, wires an all. Used duct tape to seal it up.
Some have issues with the copper, but after 2 years, no problems.

 

ive had regular plastic boost line for 3 years now with no problems. and it is super easy to snake around

 

I'm using the regular plastic boost line too. Just make sure that you have a needle/ball valve to suppress the surges. Mines working like a charm!!!!

 

I wrapped by braided SS in old heater hose to protect the surrounding area, because it WILL abrade its way though almost anything over time.

JH

 

Hohn, were'nt you recently in Hawaii with out your truck for a while? or am I thinking of someone else on here??

 

Thanks for the info guys. I got my fuel pressure gauge hooked up last night and used a needle valve and boost line kit from autometer. And primed the line and hooked it up. Now i can monitor what's going on.