A few months ago I had some gauges installed in my truck. The installer connected the fuel pressure gauge to the test port and I am guessing that the gauge went bad due to pulsations in the line. After reading this forum there were many suggestions for a snubber or needle valve to partially open the line and minimumize the pulsations. I purchased the line but, never installed. I have seen installs completed where the gauge is connected to the bottom of the fuel canister and some to the test port. Is one location more accurate than the other? With installing the snubber is there a need for some type of teflon tape or loc-tite to prevent leaking? Can the snubber be installed in series between the braided steel line and electrical connection?

 

I believe the closer to the pressure transducer, the better. I have a cheap Northern Tools 0-30psi mechanical gauge connected after the LP and before the fuel filter to double check the connections. It is mounted under the cab on the frame so I can just bend down and check it when shutting down the truck or whenever there is a question about what my electrical gauge is telling me. I can also check the pressure differential between the pre and post filter lines to see when my fuel filter is clogged (theoretically)....

 

No need for a snubber if the guage can handle it. Get a liquid-filled mechanical gauge.

I've had isolators, needle valve snubbers, etc. Trust me, just get a liquid-filled mechanical guage for $20 or so from Jeg's or somesuch and be done with it.

jh

 

are the isspro's liquid filled?

 

My $4 mechanical gauge is not liquid filled but I see zero needle vibration with my setup.

 

where did you get it?

 

like this? do you use SS hose or tubing?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=1

what about this hose?

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/752578/10002/-1/10019

 

gauges that are liquid filled or have built in snubber will not vibrate for the electric the pulsation tears up the sensor you have to install a snubber the best thing to do is to buy a snubber and two oil pressure gauge kits with 6' copper line leave them coiled up and place the snubber in the middle mount the sensor upright on a bracket near the firewall. connect the line to a taped banjo bolt on the pump or bottom of filter, the Schroeder valve is probably ok i just do not trust the connection it was made for temporary check point

 

mechanical guages are great but in Alberta its illeagal to run a feul line inside the cab. probable the same in the most states. plus why whould you run a presurized line into the cab? And if you install the quage under the hood or else were under the cab how do you check your feul pressure when the engines fully loaded? I've seen guys use a ball valve for a snubber. they just barley open it. But from what i've heard if you get the guage that goes to i think its 60 or 80 psi you won't need a snubber. Not sure it thats true, but i do have the bigger gauge from auto meter, Had it intalled on a friend truck right at the banjo bolt for a few weeks. Its going onto my truck right away. I'll post if i have any problems down the road.

 

Here:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA
I used a 35 psi Autometer water gauge like this one except the face on mine is black.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

 

nice site, thanks.

also do you use tubing or ss fuel line?

 

I used a 1/8" Teflon line to connect the gauge in the cab. I did not use an isolator. There are some pictures in the link in my signature. The low pressure (15-20 psi) does not warrant using a metal line in this application, either Teflon (I had some handy) or Nylon would work just fine. I find it amusing that people use a "3,000 psi line for my gauge so it is safe", sounds the same as using 1/4" sheet metal for the hood to make sure hail can't damage it.

 

thanks, i was gonna spend 40 bucks on some SS hose.

 

Spend $10 on some quality compression fittings and Nylon tubing instead

 

i found some 1/4 fuel line(push lock) locally. it should be about the same price.