fuel plate
I just did mine its very simple. I just used a dremel tool and a stone to make my version of a #10 plate then smoothed it out with a fine stone. works great. Did you move you afc housing all the way forward as well that helps? I dont have any pics of a plate but Im sure someone on here does.
You usually don't get as much power with the plate full foward as you do with it moved back about 1/10". Moving it forward can also mess up the governor arm ajustment, follow instuctions here to check it http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm
mabey forrest will chime in.... he ground on his and made over 400 hp and over 900 tq to the wheels...... with other mods of course...... i'd personally like to know how the plates are modified too......
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24v's have a fully electronic pump - no fuel plate to grind....just plug in your favourite fueling box and go!
As for moving the stock plate full forward - not a good idea....Infidel brought up some good points but I would add one more. A stock plate full forward can cause some very retarded top end fueling.....some of which can be corrected by advancing the pump timing a bit but not all of it....you would be far better off to grind the plate to a #100 or a #0 and adjust the positioning from there......full forward does not mean full power if you are injecting the extra fuel too late in the stroke - more smoke and egt is the result - not much extra power.
RW,
Fill in your sig so we know what you are driving.....it helps everyone help you better.....and get a boost and egt gauge if you are going to be doing some plate tuning - you are tuning blind without them. A good starting point would be also to bump timing up to 16 - 17* - this will really help power and keep egt's in check (to a point) when using an aggressive plate.
As for moving the stock plate full forward - not a good idea....Infidel brought up some good points but I would add one more. A stock plate full forward can cause some very retarded top end fueling.....some of which can be corrected by advancing the pump timing a bit but not all of it....you would be far better off to grind the plate to a #100 or a #0 and adjust the positioning from there......full forward does not mean full power if you are injecting the extra fuel too late in the stroke - more smoke and egt is the result - not much extra power.
RW,
Fill in your sig so we know what you are driving.....it helps everyone help you better.....and get a boost and egt gauge if you are going to be doing some plate tuning - you are tuning blind without them. A good starting point would be also to bump timing up to 16 - 17* - this will really help power and keep egt's in check (to a point) when using an aggressive plate.
Thanks guys. I have a 1994 std cab 4x4 5spd w/4:10 gears. I have a pyro and boost on the truck and I get lots of smoke with plate full forward and added power. egts aren't over 1100 with pre turbo pyro but boost won't go over 15 psi with an unplugged wastegate. What should I do about the low boost and the smoke and also how do you time yoour pump?
You should be making at least 30psi of boost.. (not sure on those little pumps) check the line from the wastegate.. follow it over the valve cover to the AFC housing.. (especially the rubber line on the drivers side of the valve cover) if the lines are good, and the boots are all on you might have a bad diaphragm in the AFC housing... You are missing lots of boost somewhere.. (make sure put the line back on ther AFC housing.. been there....
Good Luck
Bryan
Good Luck
Bryan
The boost problem is that with the stock wastegate setting you are getting the gate to open at 15 Psi and dumping in fuel.
Go to the automotive store and get some hose pinchers. They are a clamp you put on hoses when you pull a heater core or something. Then pinch off that wastegate feed line from the AFC to the gate. There is about 6" of rubber line right at the AFC. Some guys just plug it.
The extra boost will definitely help, the extra fuel is doing nothing with out some air in there.
J-eh
Go to the automotive store and get some hose pinchers. They are a clamp you put on hoses when you pull a heater core or something. Then pinch off that wastegate feed line from the AFC to the gate. There is about 6" of rubber line right at the AFC. Some guys just plug it.
The extra boost will definitely help, the extra fuel is doing nothing with out some air in there.
J-eh
I un-kinked the line to the boost gauge and got it up to 23 psi. I put a performance wastegate on and set it at 26 psi but then I un plugged it when I had low boost. I don't think my AFC diaphragm is bad cause I messed with my star wheel and it changed the smoke amount and I tightened all of the clamps with no change. I also would like to know if I am taking any life off of my rig with the stock plate full forward andthe starwheel all of the way up and I still want to know how to grind my fuel plate!!!!!
I still want to know how to grind the fuel plate and also could a plugged muffler/cat be the problem? It isn't strait piped due to the looudness so how do I grind the plate and should I strait pipe it?
you should straight pipe it, and you should grind the plate 
there's a pic of my plate in my photo gallery I believe.
made 434/950 a couple weeks ago... checked the timing, and it was only at 12.5*! set it at 16.5*... haven't had a chance to re-dyno yet
Forrest

there's a pic of my plate in my photo gallery I believe.
made 434/950 a couple weeks ago... checked the timing, and it was only at 12.5*! set it at 16.5*... haven't had a chance to re-dyno yet

Forrest



so I was wondering how to grind the fuel plate for more power.