Oh Im sure those studs can hold up to some serious strain, but what about the threads cut in the block? I dont know if I trust those threads to hold 140ftlb of torque. If I pull threads out of the block thats going to be expensive to fix I bet =(
I wonder what the drilling and machining of 14mm's costs. Or maybe I dont want to know

 

Yeah, its possible.
But, my feeling on this is the only way a stud will pull out of a block is BAD prep.
Why is it that Enterprise Engine (a very popular high performance Cummins) builder recommends that amount of torque?

I have only read of a few guys who actually pulled a stud out of the block.

 

No retorques on mine and its holding great. But then again I didn't remove the head.

 

BAMM.....!!!! I just torqued mine to 126..!!! 1 lb more than ARP suggests....LOL

What I don't understand is why factory torque spec are so low with head bolts and screw in studs are so high in comparison. I would think the clamping force of studs would enable you to achieve a better force with less torque. When I built this small block chevy I used ARP everything on the block and heads. 13.5 compression and 620 HP. The torque specs with the ARP studs where less than stock chevy head bolts...... Very strange....

 

ARP used to recommend 96ft/lbs. on the studs. If you have a set of studs that you had to mill the valve covers, then the directions say 96#.

 

Yes I had to clearance the valve covers. So my 126 lbs should be good. I did not have the instructions for my studs. The shop that did my HG last year threw the directions in the trash..... No wonder my HG only lasted 11 months....
LOL.....

 

I think you can download the instructions from ARP.

Hopefully your gasket stays together this time.

 

i had to mill my rocker pedastals so i have the new studs. as far as all the diferent torque methods i think i will just kinda combine the best from all of it. i am going to follow arp's instructions about loosening the nut and retorquing 3 times, then recheck to 120. then im going to bring to temp at idle and let cool over night, recheck to 120 then take to 125. run one tank bieng easy on her (thats what i didnt do last time, i followed arp inst rechecked to 125 after a week of less than 20# driving, then hit it hard right to 60# and 1550 on the pyro.)recheck to 125 then take them to 130. another easy tank recheck to 130. drive with probally no more than 30# for a week then recheck. after i get into it hard a few times (over 50#) i think i will recheck them then also. hopefully that will do the trick.