javascript:;

 

[/IMG]


Here you go bro! IMO when torquing your studs do 25, 50, 70, 90, 105, 115, 120. Idle it up to operating temperature then turn it off and let it set overnight to get completely cool (might even leave your hood popped or a small fan blowing on it from underneath.) Go back out there and check them all at 115, then torque to 120, then 125. Drive it easy for a few days with a couple heat cycles then recheck at 120, then do 125, 130. Drive it for about 2 weeks still being real easy on the skinny pedal and do your final retorque on a dead cold again again, check at 125, then do 130 and finally 135.

I can't garuntee the stud or whatever won't break but IMO there should be no worries. It may should a little overbored but after spending so much money on the head/HG and time involved being a little over precautious is a good thing.

 

that didnt work

 

beat me to it

 

Hey thanks guys..... And while I have your attention. I need to know what size drill bit is needed to tap a 1/8 NPT thread?

 

5/16" What are you putting a 1/8 NPT on?

 

I am installing my my boost elbow into my turbo housing. My turbo had no pipe thread....

This is not my tubro but this is what I am doing..

 

Actually you can install your boost elbow on the back of the AFC housing and run the line to the wastegate from that.

 

Hey guys thanks for all the help with my HG fix. I got my truck back together tonight. Everything went smooth with no issues. I got a late start on it this afternoon so I finished up about 9 pm West Coast time. Took the truck around the block nice and easy... I can't wait to try out the 4K spring kit. I could tell right off the get go that the 4k made a big difference from old 3k kit.. Even with the valet switch on I could tell my truck wants to GO...!!!! I put my 8 plate back in while I am breaking in the new HG. Even the 8 plate feels different with the 4K.

And Mudd I read your post about the boost elbow. Where I placed it now seems to build boost much faster. Even the after market turbos have the boost elbow in on the turbo housing so their must be some advantage if High Performance turbo's come that way... Thanks for the help.. I truly appreciate..

Happy Holidays guys....

Dave

 

One other thing guys..... My truck had already been in the shop last year and they marked the dampener for TDC but I want to check it the timing pin. When I went to grab the timing pin I actually pulled it out. I have never seen one but the tip was very short. It did not look broken, but I am not sure how long it should be... Does anyone have a picture of the timing pin?

Thanks....

 

The turbos between a 12v and a 24v can be swapped between each other, and the 24v's don't have a line across the engine to the manifold for a boost reading. I'd say its more for packaging than anything.

 

if you tow heavy then you will like this turbo alot better than the 71mm.
the 71mm builds boost fast after 10psi but its the getting it to 10psi that is the problem. and when i say heavy im talkin 20K

 

the nipple on the end of the pin is only about 1/8" or so.

 

Thanks Ds.

 

make sure you put it back in or your gona be leakin oil. maby you need a new o-ring or something. i have a blow up pic of the parts & #s for the timing case arround somewhere