Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Factory fuel filter delete

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Old May 17, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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quadstar's Avatar
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From: Lewiston, Idaho
Factory fuel filter delete

I would like to delete the factory fuel filter because I do not use it any more, I have a fass pump. What do I do with the line from the back of the filter? It is the one that ties into all the injectors at the bottom.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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estrada5.9's Avatar
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From: etna,ca
So I was thinkin if you could do it without messin up the filter you could gut it out and clean it really good so you do not get anything into the injection pump. That may be the easyest way.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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what about putting a pigtail between the line in and line out or just going around the filter apparatus and going straight to the injector pump with the line from the FASS?
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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From: Fremont, OH/Newport News, VA
Couldn't you just remove the filter and fill it all the way up to the cap? Either that, or like Ron says, just take the inlet off and run it right to the VP
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Old May 18, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
I'd think the easiest way of doing it is to get a Tee fitting. Two barbs of whatever hose size is for your FASS (3/8" I'm thinking), get a plug for the third port. Drill and tap it for the size of banjo for the injector return line. I want to say its a 6mm, but you'd have to confirm that.

That, or just tie it into the IP return line. Same idea as above applies.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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From: Sacramento, CA
take the whole filter assembly out. change the fuel line from the FASS to go directly to the VP, why add tees or couplers to the line? don't introduce more potential for leaks and issues! make sure you replace the filter assembly bolts on the head/intake or add washers, many intake/boost leaks occur if the bolts are left out or if they bottom out without tightening the intake plate snug!
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Old May 18, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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From: Cape Coral, FL
I don't know what FASS has, but deleting your fuel filter will get rid of the water-in-fuel detector/water-in-fuel separator/fuel heater also....
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Old May 18, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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quadstar's Avatar
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From: Lewiston, Idaho
filter delete

So I'm going to delete the whole housing and filter for sure, this I know. What I don't know is: the line on the top of the filter housing, to the back of the filter housing, (closest to the fire wall)- seems to have a line coming from the injectors. the line in question seems to run from all 6 injectors, I'm guessing this is the (injector return line) the top of the housing. I take this line off, and run it to the return line from the fass correct?
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Old May 18, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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From: Earth
I would suggest keeping the stock filter and use it along with the FASS filter. This way you will have a pre-filter and main filter.

I have a 10micron filter on my Racor filter and a 2micron filter in my stock location. The stock filter has the water in fuel light sensor as well as the fuel heater.

Some people don't like this setup but this is whats run on many diesel trucks.

I've been using this setup for 4yrs with zero problems running a FASS 95 and love it.

Hope this helps!
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Originally Posted by Beast2B
take the whole filter assembly out. change the fuel line from the FASS to go directly to the VP, why add tees or couplers to the line? don't introduce more potential for leaks and issues! make sure you replace the filter assembly bolts on the head/intake or add washers, many intake/boost leaks occur if the bolts are left out or if they bottom out without tightening the intake plate snug!
Its on a 12v, not a 24v, so different setups are required. The 6 injector return lines feed back into the supply side of the fuel filter housing. Its not tied into the IP return line like it is on the VP engines.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by vrj
I would suggest keeping the stock filter and use it along with the FASS filter. This way you will have a pre-filter and main filter.

I have a 10micron filter on my Racor filter and a 2micron filter in my stock location. The stock filter has the water in fuel light sensor as well as the fuel heater.

Some people don't like this setup but this is whats run on many diesel trucks.

I've been using this setup for 4yrs with zero problems running a FASS 95 and love it.

Hope this helps!
Agreed, I change that one about once every 12 to 16 months, and added a filter before that stock one and change it in about 30 seconds every 6 months all on the stock fuel lift pump and my line to the injection pump still throbes like it's going to explode.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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From: Earth
Joseph,

You got the setup to I see. It is so easy to change the pre-filter. Takes less than a minute to r/r and the main filter is pretty easy to change except you have to climb into the engine compartment to r/r which can take 10-15min.

The last time I changed my stock fuel filter after 1 yr., it was so clean, I hated to throw it out. No sediment or trash and no discoloration!

By the way, I'm running a Racor unit which includes a primer pump and an air bleed port. It is pre-FASS to keep my FASS working without trash and water entering it.
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