I plan to tow my 5th wheel using the wife's HO/6spd (ETH, right?) this summer - interior is quieter, stereo is much nicer, and I really just want to &quot;feel&quot; the difference between the two.<br><br>Read everything I can find on DTR and have a few final questions before I spend 600-800 bucks on an Ebrake. Bear with me - the questions are forthcoming.<br><br>Dodge &quot;customer service&quot; doesn't recommend a specific type or make. Cummins (first time &quot;C&quot; was more **** retentive than &quot;D&quot website says the Jacobs is the only recommended brake period. The local (OKC) dealer sells them for 600 bucks or so. If I go this route, I'll install one in mine too.<br><br>Questions:<br><br>1. Any folks with other brands have warranty issues with DC?<br><br>2. Same question - but substitute DC with Cummins<br><br>3. Difficulty or special tools for the install?<br><br>4. Lastly - I removed my truck's turbo from the e-manifold twice without replacing the metal gasket. I don't hear any leaks, but am I pushing it? I'll buy a set from Cummins when I order the EBrake if necessary.<br><br>DAWG<br>

 

Dawg,<br><br>First the leaks. You should change the gasket each time you remove the turbo. If you are not leaking, it would be a surprise. You may not feel it. When you remove your turbo next time, look for the telltale black soot running up or down one side of the gasket. It will be there. Those gaskets compress to seal and never seal correctly the next time. Never may be a bit too strong.<br><br>The only warranty issues I have ever heard of with any brake is on the automatics. I have never heard of this being an issue with the manual transmissions.<br><br>Which brand? That is a matter of choice for you. If you decide to go with a Cummins e brake, try to get it for $575 or less from your local source because that is what they sell them for from www.mechanicsvilledodge.com , delivered to your door. (At least that was the price last time I checked)<br><br>No specialty tools required for installation. I would recommend a switch be mounted on your shifter to turn it on and off. Leave the switch they give you in the box. It will save a hole in your dash. Just snub off the green wire, conect the yellow and red wires to the two wires from the shifter switch. These switches are available from local auto parts stores...look like a two speed axle switch. Or you can order one from the many vendors. BD, Piersdiesel, etc.

 

I had a &quot;Pac Brake&quot; installed by Camping World when truck was brand new, total cost about $800. Went back to dealer for free oil change and service mgr. saild &quot;good choice&quot;. I have been extremly happy with it, as I tow my 5er though the mountains often, wouldn't be without it. I have the switch on the dash and leave it &quot;on&quot; most of the time, exaust brake comes on about 1 second after I take my foot off the go peddle. (lets you shift gears without cycling). Works for me!!

 

I installed a Pac Brake on mine and it was a very easy straight forward installation. It would be better if you had a torque wrench so your not guessing on how tight bolts are. If you plan on driving around town with it on you should get a shifter mounted switch cause you will be turning it on a off often. They cause your turbo to hold a lot of heat and you have to turn it off so you can cool down. Dont hesitate to install an exhaust brake. They are great additions and a must for towing. I've even heard they lower your chances of a cracked manifold since the rapid hot to cool EGT times are slowed. The only down side I can think of is they do get your IAT sensor dirty.

 

Pac is the best priced E-brake, however I believe the BD Brake is the strongest (although most expensive too!)

 

Get on net! I found Pac from $525 to $1080.(?) They will sell direct at a very competive price. It is a piece of cake to install. The T wrench is a good idea. Since I have an Auto and my Auto-Loc is not fully installed I actually used it to warm up motor this winter. You may need to install 60# Valve springs! Piers or Pac will let you know. Mine cost $55. for 12v.

 

Talk to Cattle Hauler. He just installed the Jacobs e brake on his 99. I drove it and now I want one. It really makes driving and pulling better on the nerves. If you know what I mean.

 

The Pac-brake is a wonderful choice, well manufactured and easy to install. You do not have to remove the turbo as it replaces the elbow behind it.<br><br> Easy install and functions flawlessly.!

 

Sorry Guys I hate to burst your bubble but the Pac-Brake has gone up considerably!!!! almost 270 across the board :'( So the 500-700 is a little off. Just to let ya'll know what i have been goin through!! hope this helps!!<br>

 

[quote author=voodoo link=board=7;threadid=14338;start=0#135594 date=1052270404]<br>Sorry Guys I hate to burst your bubble but the Pac-Brake has gone up considerably!!!! almost 270 across the board :'( So the 500-700 is a little off. Just to let ya'll know what i have been goin through!! hope this helps!!<br><br>[/quote]<br><br>I know I was even considering getting one even thought I don't tow very much, but I use a heavy trailer :'(

 

www.mechanicsvilledodge.com use to have the best price on the Jacobs. Mine has been working flawlessly for over three years now.

 

[quote author=dersequim link=board=7;threadid=14338;start=0#135269 date=1052196179]<br> You may need to install 60# Valve springs! Piers or Pac will let you know. Mine cost $55. for 12v. <br>[/quote] <br>The 24 valvers already have heavy duty valve springs for an E-brake to work. <br><br>I have the Jacobs and love it. Although, because I have a '98.5, I had to have the ECM reflashed which added $244 to the cost.<br>I'm also using a shifter mounted axle shift switch, NAPA #PP6490. Makes turning it on/off a breeze.

 

Two final questions before I make my choice:<br><br>1. Any name brands to stay away from?<br><br>2. Does my comp need to be flashed? Dodge dealer wasn't helpful here (go figure).

 

So I hear they are all good. The only thing I have heard though is that the ones that mount on the exhaust pipe are prone to carbon build up because of the lack of heat being so far from the turbo. And I have never heard of flashing a box like the Comp.??? Let alone the dealer having anything to do with it.

 

I just installed a Jacobs E-brake on my '99. I have no idea how I pulled my 31' 5'er without it, really saves on the brakes!<br>It took longer to put the switch on than to install the brake on the turbo!<br><br>Thought I would put in my two cents worth.<br><br>Michael