Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Eliminating Isolator

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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #1  
farmer dave's Avatar
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From: Alma, MI
Eliminating Isolator

I have a bad isolator and am going to get rid of it. I am going to run fuel to the gauge. I currently have antifreeze in the tubing and was wondering if I should flush all of it out or just hook it up to the needle valve. The antifreeze wouldn't come out with diesel pushing on it.

Also, if I do flush the antifreeze out should I treat the fuel so that it won't gel up in the winter or isn't this a problem? I was thinking about treating it like I would a winter tank. I also thought about just running an additive in the tubing like power service.

Does anyone have some suggestions on this topic?
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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From: Montana
The anti freeze in the line will eventually dilute with diesel and find it's way though your injection system. I highly doubt if the concentrations involved will cause a problem but it's no big deal to blow the anti-freeze out.
It makes absolutely no difference if there is air in the line to the gauge.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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I was told that there can be a little air in the line but over 1" is bad, you won't get accurate readings.
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 08:29 PM
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What size of tubing is used for the fuel pressure gauge? I think that mine is 5/32, what it everyone else running?
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Anybody?
.............
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 01:56 PM
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I use 1/8" tubing, the exact same kind used for a boost gauge.
There is no need for a larger line as there is no flow though the tubing, just a change in pressure.
In fact the smaller the line the faster the gauge will react.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by farmer dave
I was told that there can be a little air in the line but over 1" is bad, you won't get accurate readings.
That's not true, but anyway after a week or so the air is gone.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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Even if the line was entirely full of air the difference in the readings would be less than 0.1 psi.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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Diesel Manor told me that you only really need to even put antifreeze into the line if it's longer than 6 ft. in length. Mine very well might be longer than that. If that's the case, how do y'all suggest that I get all the antifreeze in it?
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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By eliminating the isolator and running pure mechanical.

I dunno. I always though that the lines already had the coolant in them. If not, maybe try siphoning the antifreeze in (very carefully I might add).
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Anybody actually know the answer for sure?
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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when I ran an isolator, I used a syringe to put antifreeze in it...It worked but the isolator gave inaccurate readings so I took it off and just run the needle valve now
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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From: Newport News, VA
I would disconnect the end of the line at the gage, and cap it off somehow. Then disconnect the end at the isolator. Put that end in a cup, then uncap the other end and blow air thru it. that will get as much of the antifreeze out as possible.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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I am running the isolator with the antifreeze and never had a problem. To put the antifreeze I caped off the diesel side of the isolator filled the isolator and gauge with the antifreeze as best I could. Then put the isolator with the hose hooked up but not tight in a small container hooked op the gauge but not tight and let it siphion intill I was shure it was good and tightend everything up. No air in system at all. A syringe works well it you can get one also.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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farmer dave,

At low PSI reading less than 5 PSI, a little air will make no difference once you get over that there can be as much as a 5 PSI change in the gauge because of the air. Air compresses very easily, fluids do not so get all the air out for the most accurate readings.

Mark @ DPPI
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