I got the pricol EGT from dieselmanor and there is two light for it one for LED which goes to ignition hot why is this? and the other for the light. Can I run them both to a light switch? it looks like the actual light for the quage not not led is really dim not a very good light. please help, I got the pod mounted and all that is left is final hook up, all these post on the pods got me going on hooking them up.
Rob

 

Hook the LED to 12V Keyed on, hot all the time. Dimmer isn't enough power to brighten the needle.

 

Or get a lead that is switched HOT with the headlights / parking lights... Then it would be bright...

I've seen alot of people tapping the fuse panel for this... Hmmm...

 

HOw does everyone wire there guages in, do you just run them to the fuse box and get a fuse addapter that plugs in over the fuse?

 

I had autometer Ultralites and I ran all my + leads to 1 and put it on a relay and put the relay on my headlights....So always hot lead goin to relay then wire from headlight switch to relay then ground relay then wire to gauges. Does that make sense?

EDIT: Im tryin to draw a pic quick and upload it.

 

yea a pic would help you lost me at autometer.

 

I pretty sure I know what he is talking about... 3KrackerRacing is creating his own switched hotspot with a relay barrier to keep the loads off the head light switch....

Now all you have to do is add a load fuse and terminal strip... Since I didn't here anything about one... If you mount it under the knee bolster you got it made!!!

I did the samething here with my truck.

Four terminal strip...
1. 20 Amp feed from the battery on 10 Guage Wire (Fused at the battery)
2. 20 Amp feed from the key (using a feed from the fuse panel and relay) - 10 guage
3. Blank - Might be a groung soon..
4. GROUND - 10 guage back to battery

This allowed me to hook up anything I want to the the 12V system of the truck without actually cutting up the truck wiring! As you see it all over kill wiring to keep fire danger down...

 

I went to Radio Shack and got a job box (6X8), installed relays in there and mounted a covered fuse block from Painless Wiring on top of it. Mounted the whole unit onto drivers side fender and routed switched and unswitched power to it. Room for about 8 circuits with no load on any switches, works great.

 

I knew there was a better way of explaining it. But yea thats what i did.

 

I guess Great Minds think alike!

For the Headlight switched hot... There is a trailer relay under the hood that gets it's signal straight from the headlight switch. So any headlight ON postition will feed power...

I dropped a relay on this one to feed ny 100 watt driving lights... But the same feed can be taken back into the truck for dash feed foe LED lighting...

Hmmm... It already got a relay on mine and the guages are coming some day....