Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Couple gauge questions for my '96

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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 01:38 PM
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From: Middle of no where in the panhandle of FL
Couple gauge questions for my '96

Got my Isspro gauges and time to try to put them in. Got the A-Pillar mount and have downloaded a ton of install info(mostly from you guys that have done this). A couple things seem to elude me tho. Where (under the dash) do I connect the lighting wires (dash lights) on my year of truck? What color is the wire under there? Seems they change color of wires and locations every year. The other question was on the pyro. Mine has the adjustable probe. How deep into the manifold do you put it. TST shows .300-.700 inch. In plain language, is that like about a 1/2 inch? Figured I could use a small piece of wire to try to measure depth. The boost gauge looks pretty straightforward and I should be able to get the trans temp probe in the middle access plug without too much trouble. I'm going to have the trans overhauled so I will try to relocate the probe during the final refitment of the trans. Any last minute pointers
TIA,
Wayne
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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From: Fort Worth Texas
Wayne:

I am not familiar with the Isspro Gauges. I have the Hewit Instruments gauges I bought off the internet installed on the A-Pillar. However, the best way that I found to power these up is by going to Radio Shack or an auto parts store and getting a kit called Add-A -Fuse. This expands the slot in your dash fuse box to add another fuse that you can use for power. Both the original slot and the new line are separately fused using this approach.

I used the dash lights fuse to add the power for the gauge lights so the gauge lights dim. I had to use a switched power source for the transmission temp. sensor. For that sensor I used the radio fuse, added another fuse to that slot.

I can't remember which slot in the dash fuse box is for the dash lights but that information should be listed in your owners manual. For the switched power source (used by radio fuse) it is the 4th fuse from the right on the top row of fuses on my 98. Check your book over first for your locations.

I found this method to be easier than crawling around under the dash and tapping into wires that were hard to get to. Some people recommend tapping into the ash tray light for your gauge lights, but on my 98 the ash tray light does not dim.

Hope this helps and congrats on getting the gauges - they are the first and most important step when making mods.

John (DH)
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 02:25 PM
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From: Middle of no where in the panhandle of FL
Thanks BBWD,
Guess it's off to radioshack I go. See if they have a couple of those thingamajigs.
Wayne
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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From: Kansas City, MO
Also, you tranny temp sensor should be installed into the "hot" tranny line leaving the tranny and before it enters the heat exchanger (on the passenger side of engine by the oil cooler). Installing the sensor in the tranny pan or the pressure test ports will not give you an accurate reading.
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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From: Middle of no where in the panhandle of FL
Mechanos,
I have read several lively "discussions" about that. I'm am sure you are right about that particular installation point and I will do that when I get the tranny "fixed" next month but I was wondering if anyone knew how much temp variation there is from the various possible "installation points". I am wondering if, like the temp measurement difference in the pre and post turbo on the pyro, could you factor in a given temp for different probe ports on the tranny. Just thinking out loud.
Wayne
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 05:56 PM
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From: Middle of no where in the panhandle of FL
John,
Went to radioshack...no luck, so stopped by autozone and they had a thing called Add-A-Circuit. Think it's the same thing. Has a gizmo that you stick into the fuse holder and has a wire comming out and accepts 2 fuses. So my next dumb question was what amp fuse did you use on the two circuits?
Thanks,
Wayne
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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From: Fort Worth Texas
Originally posted by Mtman6698
John,
So my next dumb question was what amp fuse did you use on the two circuits?
Thanks,
Wayne
Wayne:

There is no "dumb" question. I used the same amp fuse as was in the slot where I tapped into. The trans temp is 10 amp and the dash lights is 5 amps. Also, I left a little slack in the wiring just in case I need to take the A-Pillar out for some maintenance. Hope this helps.

John (DH)
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 08:34 PM
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From: Middle of no where in the panhandle of FL
Well, they are in...WAHOOO!! Got the gauges in today. Darn near broke my elbow patting myself on the back. I will say tho, if it wasn't for all of the info provided by all of you that have done this before, they wouldn't be in. THANKS A BUNCH! Also thanks to Diesel Manor for sending all the right stuff the first time. The ISSPRO's work great. And thanks John for the wiring info..worked just like you said it would. I can certainly see why the pyro is a must for a re-plated engine. Those EGT's get up there right quick. Boost is at about 32 at WOT...is that about right?

Now finding someone in So. Calif. that can help me kill the KDP. Just don't want to go that one alone.

Anyway, I got this big smile on my face.
Wayne
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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From: Fort Worth Texas
Wayne:

Congrats on getting your gauges in. Regarding 32 PSI boost, that seems about right. I have learned on the board here that anything past 34 on a stock is not doing you any good. Mine will turn 40 at WOT so I may have to open the wastegate adjustment a little or go to an HX-40 or something a little bigger.

Wayne, if you can install the gauges you can do the KDP yourself. There is plenty of information here on the board, just do a search. If your KDP has not backed out, you can do the jig method. All you have to remove is the air horn, belt, fan, move the alternator to the side, and take off the idler pulley. I also removed the thermostat housing when I did mine to get plenty of space - it was time to change the antifreze anyway. Once you get this far, all you need is the jig, a center punch, a long drill, a helping hand with the vacuum cleaner reversed to add a little pressure to the engine to keep the chips out, a tap, bolt and #2 Permatex. If you go real slow, it should take you about 4 hours due to the learning curve.

The hardest part on mine was getting the fan off. A punch to loosen up the nut would not work so I had to go to the auto parts store and buy the big wrench. It also helps to have a strap wrench to go around the fan hub when you are loosening or tightening the bolts that hold the fan on. Had to stop again and go to the parts store because I did not have a drill long enough to reach in there. Moral is, support your parts store and have the right tools on hand before you start.

Having this done sure does give peace of mind! Good Luck!

John (DH)
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