Do the retorque on a cold engine, everything will be "shrunk" due to being cold so once the head and everything expands you will get more clamping force with xxx lb on the cold torque than the same amount on a hot torque...

 

What did you lube the studs with prior to re-torque?

Prevailing torque from a fastener's thread engagement soaks up much of the torque spec... a slipperier lube will allow the fastener to stretch more.

 

They recommend no sealer because they have one on them already, 1mm thick rubber.

 

Muddin
Piers always told me he liked to warm the engine up to operating temp and then let it cool to at least 100* when doing retorques.
From the info I received from Cometic they said a re-torque wasn't necessary after running the engine so...?
I have now run mine up to 70psi and it's still holding with-out a re-torque but only time will tell.

 

Well I pulled the head off and found the headgasket in the fwd area of cyl #1 was leaking, you can see the staining on the block and the gasket is warped/very wavy around that cyl. Threre is no dents or debrie in the gasket, the head and block is true and the head went to the shop to be rechecked for cracks and all is ok. Cometic had directions with the gasket and it stated to refer to oem torqu and arp said to torque to 96 lbs with the arp lube. So I guss I will get another gasket and go with ratsun torque specs

 

I think the 96ftlbs way the old spec. I know everyone on here torques to 125 ftlbs.

 

I wish I had some answers for you but...?
Since both your HGs went in the same area I would spend some more time looking at that area. The leak was between the gasket and the block so it would seem logical that the block would be suspect to me. My block took almost .010" to level out but with any of the straight edges I could get on it it seemed pretty flat? Is the block surface smooth, mine was very etched and pitted. Since the head is known to be true, set the head on the block without a gasket and see if you can get some feeler gauges in between to measure for trueness.

 

The head and block surfaces are very smooth so tonight I am going to blue/ink the head and set in on the block without a gasket+check with a feeler gauge, going to take some pics too.

 

Well I found the problem and it is from the head being cut too much so cometic is making a thicker gasket to bring the "piston to head " clearence back to spec and I should have the gasket at the end og next week+ thannk for the helpful info.

 

Was the piston crown slapping anything?

 

You can cut the head all you want and the only thing that gets closer is the piston to valve clearance. You can get a little aggressive with the valve grind and sink them a little to compensate. What was your piston protrusion?
The regular Cometic gasket is .060" and usually protrusion will be .022-.028" so there is somewhere around .030-.035" wiggle room so to speak.

 

I bought the truck two years ago and I had a lot of problems, got the truck with 30,000 miles and paied $20,000 for it- the truck is very clean, but I had problems- Inj pump 2 times and lift pump- all was covered under warranty but the dealer would not listen to me about the pump they had my truck for about 8 weeks to fix it and I told them it was the pump and to check the tank/lift pump and they did not, so the new pump they put in went bad in like 3 weeks from lack of fuel. I also found out that the head was removed 2 time to replace the H.G (this happenedwith the other owner) they cut the head both times and they pulled the motor to resurface the block- I was never told this when I got the truck or I would of never bought it. I just started mods and the gasket blew once I hit 30 lbs and waited for cometic to make the gasket. So this is were I am now- the piston protrusion should be .0020- .0024 because I have piston 6051 but my reading about .0038 on all cyls and you can see were the pistons are very close to the head, you can see were the top of the piston in some spots there is no carbon. The engine shouls get the shorter pistons but I am getting a thicker head gasket

 

Ahhh OK now I see.
With that much protrusion you bet there will be a problem.
Would have been nice to know this before going thru the grief of another HG
Sounds like they cut a good whack off the block (.015"?) I wonder if the dealer had the smarts to put a thicker gasket on to compensate for this or not? Sounds like no, since there gasket didn't last that long either. How much over did you order the gasket .020"? When you get the new one and start torquing it down I would suggest following the sequence they recommended to me. I finished up at 135# because I didn't have the stones to pull my old studs to 150# Seems to be holding just fine and it has hit 70psi @1250* daily now for about a week (the stocker went about 8 months though)
Good luck with it and if you think I can help feel free to PM me

 

The HG that I am getting it .080 so it .020 more and i think that I will be ok, Thanks for the help.