Hi I new to this site and it has a lot of good info, but here is my problem I installed a new cometic head gaskit and at high rpm, running about 45 lbs of boost the head gasket leaks coolent and I can hear a ticking sound. The leak is from the front of the head. I installed the arp studs and the head just had a valve job and the finish of the head is better than 50ra, very smooth along with the block and neather the head or block is warped and is with in oem spec and no cracks and the surfaces were very clean befor assy.

 

Have you retorqued the studs? Were they still moving? I've heard that exhaust leaks at the head can make ticking noises, among others, so you could check to make sure your manifold bolts are still tight.

 

Sounds like something is wrong with the installation. There are people on here running in excess of 75psi with the Cometic gasket daily.
I'll have to agree with Tate that it sounds like you need a retorque.
What did you torque the studs too?
When you set the head on the block, did you use an engine hoist or did you do it by hand? The reason why I ask, is because I have heard of people setting the head down on the block by hand and denting the gaskets, this will cause leakage.

 

I went over all the exhaust bolts and intake because I thought thats what was leaking.I torqued the head in three steps to 105 with lube on the threads so it will the torque to about 125-130 and I retorqued them with a hot engine. I looked for exhaust leaks and I do not see any. when I drove the truck the gasket was leaking so when I got home I retorqued the head to 170, I loosened one bolt one at a time and lubed the bolts and did it in three stages and now only at high boost it leaks

 

I used a hoist but I was very carefull not to hit the gaskit, I did this install on two other trucks and they have no problems and I and having the problem with mine, when the oem head gasket went, it blew out of cyl #1 so i may of missed something going bask together. The only thing I can think of is maybe the block locating pins for the gasket wont let the head down all of the way.

 

HUH,
What did you torque the studs too?

 

I know I went over kill and it a bad move to do it but I got ****** and just tried it but after I ran the truck when it was up to temp it still leaked so when I got home I losened all of the bolts and started to take it apart

 

Thats what I'm talkin about!!

 

The coolent leak is vey slight, like there is 2 or 3 small drips, the truck is not pushing coolent or overheatihng.

 

Although the instructions say to install dry I would have put a coat of the Mopar Gasket Sealer on them (or Coppercoat...prefer the Mopar stuff).

 

170#'s ??? You brave soldier!!! Maybe you overtorqued the head gasket???

 

Did you deck the head?
What did you use to tell the surfaces are flat?
I have run mine up to 60psi now and no issues but both the block and the head needed decking. The block took .010" and the head was .018" to true-up. Did you follow Cometics torque sequence? Just some thoughts

 

factory specs are within 4 thou. for a head to seat properly that aint gonna cut it. it needs to be flat.

 

The head and block is true- used a snap on straight edge and the biggest reading that i took was about .002, that not much at all, I torqued the head to cometic specs and they say to use the oem specs and thats what I did and it leaked, but i just about have the head off so I will see if dented the gasket or if something else is wrong.

 

[QUOTE=Betty Bildo;1750610] I torqued the head to cometic specs and they say to use the oem specs and thats what I did and it leaked,QUOTE]

These are the specs they sent me?



1998.5-2002 Cummins 24V Cometic MLS Head Gasket
We have finally received all of our feedback from our testers on the 5.9L 24 valve Cummins turbo diesel. The results are astounding so far. This gasket has seen 80psi of boost on a street driven Dodge Ram pick-up. The engine was setup with aftermarket 12mm head studs that were all initially tightened to 50 ft lbs and then increased to 135 ft lbs in rounds of 5lb increments. Once the studs were at 135 ft lbs the engine was left to sit for a period of 2 hours without being started. Once the 2 hours expired the torque on the studs was once again increased in 5 lb increments until a final torque of 150 ft lbs was reached.