Thinking of installing helix 2 cam, do the lifters have to be changed out like, when you change a cam in a gas engine. Best way to remove lifters from the cummins.

 

Everything that I've heard is that the lifters can stay.

 

the lifters are super hard and don't wear as fast as they do in a gas motor, make your self a set of 1/2" wood dowel rods and rubber bands to hold the lifters up when you pull out the old shaft and slide in the new one. you can check out how to do this in detail on this site some were I am sure.

TRE diesel performance has a killer deal on the Helix 2 cam right now.

 

The lifters come out thru the camshaft bore and are install above the camshaft. Its tricky. You need a cam shaft lifter tray and have to wiggle in the lifters into position. I put in new lifters in my engine. I don't like flat camshafts. The fun starts when you drop a lifter into the oil pan and you have to go fishing. Some guys drop the oil pan and install the lifters with the engine upside down. Of course the motor has to be out. I think that F1 sells cams that don't need new lifters. My stock cam had a flat/worn lobe. If buy a new cam look for a cam with the 12v lift pump lobe on it. Some people like the bolt-on cam gear, instead of the pressed on gear.

 

Mike I was told with F1 you leave you stock lifters in. But to check out your stock cam, if any wiped lobes change out your lifters.

 

Mike by the way just incase i drop a lifter in the motor, how did you fish yours out.

 

Try a magnetic pickup tool and plenty of patience... it went down there - so it can come back up the same way!




Anybody know the exact lifter I.D. and depth? I'm not thrilled about a set of 1/2" wooden dowels rolling around in the Snap-On, so I want to machine a set from 6061 aluminum... but the cam tunnel trough will stay PVC for a while!

 

I agree that the wood ones seem a little...unsophisticated, but I think they actually work better then metal ones would. With the hard wood dowels, they actuall compress a bit, when they are forced into the lifter. Kind of a interference fit. With metal you wouldn't have that. Just a thought.

Paul

 

Yeah, I know - my design has a 4-way slot machined a few inches in, so it acts like an inside-out collet (oversized with entry taper). Got a rubber band groove on the other end, too!

 

XLR8R that sounds like it might work.

 

Easiest is to install the cam with the engine upside down. Removing the engine from the truck is up to you though...

 

Wooden dowels sound good to me, would not pull engine to install cam.

 

good piks on http://www.relentlessdiesel.com/.
cam install in the forum.

 

I'll get you some specs tomorrow, maybe some pics of the lifters. I don't think the aluminum would work as well, too hard. I'll let you decide.

 

I would def use wood dowels over aluminum, wood can smush into a tight fit and can put a fresh new tapper grind after each use. I've never had an issue with 1/2" wooden dowls. Plus their cheap And If the stock cam looks ok I would just re use the stock lifters with a Helix Cam.

Brett