How many of you guys are using a manual/electronic boost controller? If you are, what kind are you using. Feel free to post pics. I'm asking cause I was one Ebay and found some inexpensive manual boost controllers that would be alot easier than messing with the wastegate push rod.

 

I ran this one for awhile on the stock HX35 until I installed the Dodgezilla. In my opinion it worked very well. I set the pressure switch at 35 psi. I had about 75$ in this set up, but I bought the solenoid valve on E-Bay.

The waste gate can bounce a little on the pressure switch when you first run up to the set pressure. I noticed my drive pressure would surge between almost 60 psi and 50 psi. Manifold boost would swing between 30 psi and 33 psi. I ended up installin a boost elbow on the outlet of the solenoid to slow the response down.

The SOP dyno saw the torque rise about the same as upping a odd number Smarty SW. The boost came on hard and just stayed at the maximum, in my case 32 psi at the manifold.

Gems PS32-30-2MNB-A-SP adjustable pressure switch


MAC 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA 3-Way Solenoid Valve

I believe the MAC 35A has been superseded by the 36A which would work the same. One could also use a comparable STC solenoid valve.

The Set Up


Sorry for the big pictures, but I don't feel like dinking with them.

Jim

 

So what switched on its a 35 psi wastegate and off the wastegate is blocked?

 

If I understand you right...

Yeah, the waste gate stays closed until 35 psi and then the pressure switch is made up and the solenoid valve opens releasing air to the waste gate actuator. I have no way to prove it, but SOP testing seemed to indicate my waste gate was creeping open. At least enough so that I noticed a difference.

I primarily wanted to use this set up for towing, but I never did it before I changed my mind and got the DZ. I was just capable of pushing the HX35 too hard in my opinion and my EGT's were 1500F+ very quickly.

BTW I used this same set up on my DZ for less than one hour. The DZ hated it. It spooled so fast that it was very hard to keep it from barking on gear shifts. I could recommend it for a HX35, but I am not so sure it is a good fit for many in the long list of after market turbo's.

Jim

 

I was thinking about using a ball/spring valve type one from ebay. I talked to a guy that makes them and he says he can use a high pressure spring for us diesel guys. I figured that would be alot easier to mess with when tuning my twin setup when it's installed.

 

i used to use one set at 47 psi...cheapo ebay type with two adjustment ***** and some brass fittings.

alot of guys use them with good results

 

If I'm running a HX-40/S400 setup, what do I need the individual pressures to be at for ~50psi or so. I don't have studs or a better head gasket yet, but will come soon after. I was thinking about keeping the 40 around 25psi or so and making up the rest with the S400. Does that sound like a good plan or do I need to go higher on the 40?