For you auto guys,

How much HP can you run with just the valve body and torque converter??

 

i believe there are to many variables to make a clear answer.what would be the use of the truck?every day driving,drag racing(high boost launches in 4x4)sled pulling,pulling heavy loads?....and a great deal of the answer lies in how much line pressure you plan on running.some aftermarket vb`s run like a 65/140 swing,and some ,like mine,run more,like a 85/160swing.....i believe the more pressure you can run,and still have your seals hold in there,the better holding power you will have,and the more hp you can run.this is the whole basis of dtt`s builds,simply making sure you hold the pressures up by the use of better sealing throughout the tranny.....................bama

 

Who knows. Depends on how good of shape the rest of the trans is in. If the seals and all are good, then probably 400 or so. Don't quote me on that though.

 

sorry.....I meant for normal highway/town driving with a very occasional light tow (under 5k)

 

Your best bet would be to contact the vendor of your choice and tell them what you want to do and see what they recommend.


Tony

 

Tony, I just thought Id throw it out there.....lots of very knowledgeable people here.

 

First of all you'd need to diagnose your real linepressure and leak test your tranny. The lower rpm of a better TC will increase the effects of any small leak you have now.
Without a leak test it's a game of chances.

AlpineRAM

 

For that type of driving save your money and be happy, pay for the rising cost of fuel. You do not need any upgrades at all. I personally know of many auto trucks (even pre 96's) that have run well over 150,000 miles with no problems. If your not going to increase the Hp and raise hell with the truck the stock setup is just fine.

 

oh no....normal highway driving with 350+ HP....(maybe a little drag racing now and then)

 

Have a pressure test done to the transmission to check for leaks in the seals and if every thing is fine then a VB and TC should be good to go for 350 Hp. Remember there are no guarantees in life no matter how much you do to some thing, it can still break.

 

the DTT upgrade kit is only like $295.... If you throw in a TC & VB, why not spend the extra couple bucks!


Tony

 

Yes there is a pile of knowledgeable people on here... but tranny questions always seem to go south fast... well at least they used to anyway...

 

Maybe I should start another thread about oil and oil filters?? That always turns out good.

 

There really is no right answer on this one as no matter what this minimal upgrade does actual hold it's obvious you will exceed it. Check out the tranny sites and you will see that there is a lot more to holding power than a torq converter and a valvebody. http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=528 gives a pretty good anology of things that should be addressed for power and longevity. When my OEM tranny started slipping I thought that the torq converter was the only thing that was bad. As it turned out the third gear frictions where toast among other things. So had I only done the torq converter It wouldn't of really done me any good. If nothing else you should at least inspect the transmission internal parts for excessive wear after going through all the trouble of dropping it to do a torq converter.

Opie

 

I had my AT modified with a BD heavy duty valve body and Torque convertor at 75K. I have since towed our 10,000lb 5er all over this great country with only one problem. A seal blew at 125K, strangely enough while running empty. The local Dodge dealer had the truck 3 different times and never did find out why the AT would not upshift from 2>3 when cold. One trip to my local Cummins repair center and they replaced the seal with a thicker one BD now uses. I would not try to upgrade my 47RE again. ATIS manufactures AT's guaranteed to withstand 350HP with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. Check out thier link on the DTR home page.