Lost VP-44 and don't want to lose another. The guys at MWFI have a safety light that comes on when pressures drop below 8 psi. This whole set up cost I think $86.00. Any cheaper/cooler looking route anyone can suggest?

 

Take a look at Westach. Good looking, lightweight, and not too expensive.

 

Check my sig. It's a little more than that light, but well worth seeing exactly the pressure you have.

 

paid like 260$ for an autometer electric gauge and banjo bolt. best setup. no air guage not a light...steering wheel pod.

 

I think I paid about 120.00 including the cubby hole mount. I'll check my receipts and get an exact price if you PM me and remind me.

 

How about $11 for this high quality Stewart-Warner mechanical gauge?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

Just add less than $10 worth of plumbing, no isolator, for a problem free set up.

 

How important is it to have an isolator in the system. I put a FP gauge on for my buddy with the isolator, but I wouldnt mind to have a FP gauge in my truck, and that stupid isolator costs too much to suit me. I dont like the idea of having fuel in the cab, but I really dont see it hurting anything. Any opinions?

Eric

 

Im sure alot of people run mechanical gauges without isolators. But theres always the possiblity of a gauge failing or a line leaking, and spraying fuel all over... not common for a gauge to rupture, but it does happen.

Depending on if you want to race, some places do not allow fuel in the passenger compartment, and require an isolator w/ braided steel lines on firewall. Depends on their track rules. Some also dont allow that silly plastic oil pressure line either, it would have to be braided steel.

Really only comes down to can you put a price on safety?

I suppose you could always sell your airbag and put that money towards an isolator? lol

 

I'm running the Westach electrical fuel pressure gauge as well. It works great and you can get it from geno's garage for under $100.

 

My experience has been that most isolators used on diesel engines fail within the first 1000 miles, leak internally and allow fuel into the cab without your knowledge.
I think you'll find quite few folks here don't use an isolator. Best bet is to install a needle valve at the head of the line so if there is a leak it can be shut down.
If you use Permatex #2 instead of teflon tape for thread sealant and don't go overboard tightening down fittings a leak would be rare.

 

I had an Isspro, straight mechanical. I will be running the same thing (no isolator), cept maybe the Optix line in the new truck.

 

I've been running a fuel pressure gauge with no isolator for
2 years with no problems. Needle valve and steel braided line
to the gauge rated for 500 psi. Lift pump puts out 16 psi , do
you think the hose will hold up under that much pressure

 

I remember reading about guys using grease gun hoses There was like 2985 psi safety factor
I will be running braided inside my cab this time around, I was all nylon tubing sheathed in NAPA fuel line on the old truck.

 

DiPriocol, about $50 for the gauge, from DPP. Napa has a copper line gauge kit that seems to eliminate the need for a needle valve, abot $10 for the kit. You should be OK without the issolator, many think more trouble than they are worth.

 

I got my Nordskog electric gauge for just over $100.