BD's R.A.D.
11-02-2003, 04:33 PM
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BD's R.A.D.
I hope those that have the R.A.D. box can help me out.
Cold weather is here at last and I noticed that the grid heaters were not working after the truck was started. They function normally for the pre-start warm up.
For the grid heaters to work the IAT must be below 59*, water temp below 140*, speed must be below 15 mph.
Just for grins I unhooked the RAD's connection to the white/orange tracer wire and the grid heaters work like they should.
Anyone else notice this? Or do I have a wiring or box problem?
Cold weather is here at last and I noticed that the grid heaters were not working after the truck was started. They function normally for the pre-start warm up.
For the grid heaters to work the IAT must be below 59*, water temp below 140*, speed must be below 15 mph.
Just for grins I unhooked the RAD's connection to the white/orange tracer wire and the grid heaters work like they should.
Anyone else notice this? Or do I have a wiring or box problem?
11-03-2003, 05:41 PM
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Re:BD's R.A.D.
Stakeman,
How long ago did you buy your RAD?
With the switch in the green position I don't understand how it would be affecting your heaters. I just got my RAD back from a software update and will be monitoring for what your describing. Until next week though, I only have one element of my heater hooked up as one of my heater relays is internally shorted.
Perhaps you should give BD a call. Christian is who I talked to and it only took a week to get the box back from the software update.
How long ago did you buy your RAD?
With the switch in the green position I don't understand how it would be affecting your heaters. I just got my RAD back from a software update and will be monitoring for what your describing. Until next week though, I only have one element of my heater hooked up as one of my heater relays is internally shorted.
Perhaps you should give BD a call. Christian is who I talked to and it only took a week to get the box back from the software update.
11-03-2003, 06:42 PM
#6
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Re:BD's R.A.D.
Stakeman and OPIE:
I have not noticed any problems with the grid heater
on either my truck or my son's (banshee) as of yet,
however, it has not been that cold here yet either.
I too am wondering about the "software update"
you mentioned OPIE. We took my 02' out to the
drag strip recently and I had a problem with the
truck "defueling" AT THE END of the quarter mile
run. It was like it "ran out of fuel" when it hit about
3100 RPM. After the RPM fell down to about 2800
it ran O.K. again. But,.....it doesn't do it all the time.
My son and I hammered it on the local county roads
here over the weekend and could not get the truck
to repeat what it did at the dragstrip. It DOES NOT
defuel between the 1st and 2nd gear shift though.
I called Christian Roth at BD and he said the box
needs to be "reflashed" to be able to get up to
about 3500 RPM. He said to send it out to them as
you described OPIE, however, I haven't gotten it
out there to them yet.
So, if anyone else is using the BD RAD Device be
aware of this problem.
-------
John_P
I have not noticed any problems with the grid heater
on either my truck or my son's (banshee) as of yet,
however, it has not been that cold here yet either.
I too am wondering about the "software update"
you mentioned OPIE. We took my 02' out to the
drag strip recently and I had a problem with the
truck "defueling" AT THE END of the quarter mile
run. It was like it "ran out of fuel" when it hit about
3100 RPM. After the RPM fell down to about 2800
it ran O.K. again. But,.....it doesn't do it all the time.
My son and I hammered it on the local county roads
here over the weekend and could not get the truck
to repeat what it did at the dragstrip. It DOES NOT
defuel between the 1st and 2nd gear shift though.
I called Christian Roth at BD and he said the box
needs to be "reflashed" to be able to get up to
about 3500 RPM. He said to send it out to them as
you described OPIE, however, I haven't gotten it
out there to them yet.
So, if anyone else is using the BD RAD Device be
aware of this problem.
-------
John_P
11-03-2003, 07:41 PM
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Re:BD's R.A.D.
John,
Were you shutting the RAD off or into the center position after you shift into 3rd? I believe my instruction said something about that
Nathan
Were you shutting the RAD off or into the center position after you shift into 3rd? I believe my instruction said something about that
Nathan
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11-03-2003, 10:37 PM
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Re:BD's R.A.D.
John_P,
This is the first I heard of the software having any control over the speed limiter wire. I told Stakeman in PM that I thought that was hard wired via the switch. I would look at my fueling box/connections if my truck did what your describing. Even when defueling was happening on the top end my truck never dropped rpms. It just quite pulling so hard. This was only really noticed in third, and now I doubt it would happen as my shift points have been lowered. Now I need more power to get the full potential of the RAD box as I run out of track at 113.
This is the first I heard of the software having any control over the speed limiter wire. I told Stakeman in PM that I thought that was hard wired via the switch. I would look at my fueling box/connections if my truck did what your describing. Even when defueling was happening on the top end my truck never dropped rpms. It just quite pulling so hard. This was only really noticed in third, and now I doubt it would happen as my shift points have been lowered. Now I need more power to get the full potential of the RAD box as I run out of track at 113.
11-03-2003, 11:01 PM
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Re:BD's R.A.D.
Nathan,
I just wanted to clarify for others as you are already aware of this.
The RAD operated by a three position switch.
Pos Aft is for normal driving and the tip of the switch is green.
Pos Center I believe is white and it gets rid of the speed limiter on the top end.
But burying the speedo is easy enough, and I did that after we cut the speed limiter wire in Muncie. I really don't have any use for the middle position now.
Pos FWD the switch is red (When switching to race mode "red"
it would do no good to waiting until third gear. (And no I haven't tried switching out of Race after third gear. To busy smiling!) You should have it on an working before you even stage. (Working is when the tach quits working.)
People racing in red mode is how they find out who I am!
I just wanted to clarify for others as you are already aware of this.
The RAD operated by a three position switch.
Pos Aft is for normal driving and the tip of the switch is green.
Pos Center I believe is white and it gets rid of the speed limiter on the top end.
But burying the speedo is easy enough, and I did that after we cut the speed limiter wire in Muncie. I really don't have any use for the middle position now.
Pos FWD the switch is red (When switching to race mode "red"
it would do no good to waiting until third gear. (And no I haven't tried switching out of Race after third gear. To busy smiling!) You should have it on an working before you even stage. (Working is when the tach quits working.) People racing in red mode is how they find out who I am!
11-04-2003, 07:04 PM
#11
Administrator
Re:BD's R.A.D.
OPIE, Idaho and Stakeman:
Thanks for all your responses guys! I appreciate it!
Idaho, I tried the switch in BOTH positions at the drag
strip,....that being, leaving it in the "RED" postion (all
the way to the top) and also switching it to the middle
position (yellow) and the two runs I made it "defueled"
both times. My son (banshee) made a run in my truck
and said he switched it down to the middle position
(yellow) and he had no problems turning a 13.5 @ 100
MPH. Maybe the truck just doesn't like me!!
We also tried making some "runs" this last weekend on
a county road not far from where I live. We made three
"simulated drag race starts" (doing nothing different than
what we do at the track) and could not duplicate the
problem.
OPIE, I think your idea on the wiring is where the problem
may be, however, we have looked at that pretty good too.
But,....thanks again for all your help!! I will let you know
how it all works out.
------
John_P
Thanks for all your responses guys! I appreciate it!
Idaho, I tried the switch in BOTH positions at the drag
strip,....that being, leaving it in the "RED" postion (all
the way to the top) and also switching it to the middle
position (yellow) and the two runs I made it "defueled"
both times. My son (banshee) made a run in my truck
and said he switched it down to the middle position
(yellow) and he had no problems turning a 13.5 @ 100
MPH. Maybe the truck just doesn't like me!!
We also tried making some "runs" this last weekend on
a county road not far from where I live. We made three
"simulated drag race starts" (doing nothing different than
what we do at the track) and could not duplicate the
problem.
OPIE, I think your idea on the wiring is where the problem
may be, however, we have looked at that pretty good too.
But,....thanks again for all your help!! I will let you know
how it all works out.
------
John_P
01-28-2004, 11:53 PM
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in another post.
Has anybody else had this problem?
I am thinking od the BD RAD. but I do not have the billet output shaft.
What are your opnions?
Originally posted by Offshoreracer
IA warning though, without a BILLET OUTPUT SHAFT you run the risk of breakage above a 15 psi launch. I did it as well as a friend, first time - snap.
Fred
IA warning though, without a BILLET OUTPUT SHAFT you run the risk of breakage above a 15 psi launch. I did it as well as a friend, first time - snap.
Fred
I am thinking od the BD RAD. but I do not have the billet output shaft.
What are your opnions?
