Depends on your elevation. My buddies truck was at 460hp with a KSB-1 on his 24valve and he didnt like how hot it ran. He lives between 4000-6000' says its better over on the coast at sea level. But the 24valve flows more air than the 12 so at that hp level with the same turbo the 12valve would run hotter.

 

I was at 460 hp with my KSB-1 and could hit 1500* in 6-8 sec from a dead stop (WOT). I could also pull 51 psi boost....too much for efficiency on a B-1 compressor. I added an external wastegate to control turbo rpm's and water injection to control EGT's.

I would recommend going to the B1-2...will run a little cooler and spool fine with your automatic...depending, as mentioned above, on your altitude.

Full B-1's just won't work on a auto, IMO. No Street manors, lots of smoke, very slow spool up.

If I was starting over again, I would seriously consider HTT. I believe they are building similar turbos to B-1, with better marketing options, better prices and much better customer service.

RJ

 

Full B-1 housing is a bit more open than a HX-40 housing...not much. It has a flange on it that the downpipe fits over, and a longer neck. Pain in the neck to fit. Much better off with the HX-40, IMO.

Chris, How many compressor blades on the Full B-1? And, if you happened to notice before installing, how many turbine blades? I know B-1's change the number of blades (more) from the -1 to the -2's. I always wondered if there was another change in the Full B-1? The size of the blades does not change, as has been reported in the past...but the A/R ratios on the housings are very different.

Duke1n - How many blades on your B1-2 compressor/turbine? I'm guessing all -2's have 7 compressor blades and 11 turbine blades (as did my KSB1-2)...but have never had a chance to confirmed this fact.
We have been told in the past that you can not change blades on B-1's...only housings! But after measuring no diameter difference between the -1 wheels and the -2 wheels, I'm not so sure?

RJ

 

Rolling on floor laughing.....
Git R Done Forrest!

 

Chris - sure is nice to get rid of that stocker, huh? I was amazed at the difference the turbo made on my truck, stock turbo egts were 1400, dropped to 1200 with new turbo. After I installed my injectors, if I go wot through all the gears, I hit 1350. Just imagine what it would be with stock turbo

 

I'm no expert but I think all the B1 varients have the same compressor side. KS1s and 2s both have smaller exhaust housings. The exhaust wheel size is different between the -1 & -2. For example to make a B1-2 into a full B1 just requires a different wheel on the exhaust side. Mine's already boxed up ready to ship today so I can't count blades. When it get's back I'll let you know what a full B1 has

I have yet to hear of anyone with a KS who did not have EGT issues. Housing is just too tight for higher hp fueling. My B1-2 runs very cool at 500hp+ even at 5500' elevation.

 

This was not true in my case. I used a micrometer on a KSB1-2 and my KSB-1. Both exhaust (turbine) housings had same I.D. and both turbine blades measured 2.500" dia. Only difference was the number of blades...as mentioned above.

The KS designation does denote a tighter turbine housing...and I believe the dimensions of the compressor housings are identical between the 1's & 2's....as you said. But the compressor blades on the 2 B-1's I measured were also the same diameter but with different #'s of blades....the KSB-1-2 had 1 more compressor blade (7), than the KSB -1 (6).

In other words...the KSB-1-2 had one more blade on each side (exhaust & compressor) than the KSB-1

Who are you having do the work? Have they said they can convert a -2 to a full B-1?

RJ

 

7 compressor blades if I remember correctly...but I didn't look much at the turbine side. Sorry.

I don't know why I bought the Full B1 instead of the KS version...When I go to twins I'll be looking for spoolup, and I could use a external wastegate to keep drive pressures in check. Unless the spoolup improves with a touch more fuel, I'll hate this thing with twins and towing (I'm guessing here, I haven't towed with it yet, might do this tonight!)

Chris

On Edit!! Can my B1 be changed to a KS version when I do go to twins if it's too laggy???

 

Interesting...

TAD is doing the conversion.

 

im at sea level, or about 10 ft from it, so i live at like 0, so will i still be running hot with a KSB-1?

 

Not sure on the KS question... if you need a break in run, give me a call. I have a vette engine in Chicago that I need back here on Saturday.

brandon.

 

4doogie - Yup! You'll be limited to safe WOT runs of about 10-12 sec.

Chris - Yup! All you need to change is the Turbine housing...about $400-500 dollars.

RJ

 

Would I still be able to tow with the KSB-1? and how loud will it be running 45 psi of boost in the cab and outside the cab? 10-14 seconds is a good run for WOT.

 

I feel the KSB-1 is excellent for towing...carries 4-5 psi boost at 60 mph cruise (empty).

That 10-12 sec includes 5 +/- sec at pegged Pyro (1500*). Just making sure you heard all I was saying!

Noise from the KSB-1 depends on your air system...and is a very personal thing....some like more than others. I have a TAG and a Scotty II, with the hole, and can hear it when I want to...but it's not so loud I can't tune it out on long trips or when I want (radio, cell phone, etc.)

Without the TAG...it's loud, IMO.

RJ

 

TAG? havent heard that one before. Care to fill me in? I plan on a scotty II with the hole cut out. i like the sound most of the time its when im on the phone or on the highway that it gets annoying. Im going to be getting a 4.5 inch lift and 35's so my guess is im going to have humming anyways. thanks for your help, are there any other turbos you guys know about that i might want to look at?