OK, here is the deal. I hate the look of a raked truck (or car for that matter). It just looks cheezy. A vehicle should sit level, period. But I also do not care for lifted trucks, and as far as Im concerned, the front height of my rig is at the perfect height right now, so I am not interested in lifting the front 2" with a 'leveling kit". I am pondering removing the rear axle blocks and cutting them down to lower the rear until the truck sits level to just ever-so-slightly raked empty. Anybody else do this ?

I will check the driveshaft penetration in the transfer case to make sure there is enough room for it to take it deeper if the truck then sqats real far with a huge overload. Am I missing something that would be a problem ???

Truck barely gets to level with a load on, so I dont think thats a problem. Worst case I could get some bags for the rear if I have to haul real heavy.

Whatcha think ?

Kp

 

I'm right there with you. I don't like the look either, there's just to much wheel well over the rear tire. There's enough height for the 285's in the front, taking the front higher would make the tires look too small. Now cutting the block down is a great idea if you don't "use" your truck. If you do, then prepare to ride on the bump stops or close to it. A backwards rake looks a lot gayer I think bags are the only way to do it right.

Don't worry about the slip yoke, they designed it to fully bottom out without impact.

 

I'd do bags as well. Cutting the block would be the cheapest route but the bag setup would be a great way to go.



~Nick

 

My dad did this with his 99 psd. He just went to a junk yard and looked around till he found a truck with 2" blocks(half of stock) and installed them.
He did run into the too long drive shaft problem when towing heavy though. Not sure how he fixed it, this was in 99. Blocks are pretty cheap and I would discourage cutting them down.
CJ

 

Dodge had/has a kit out for this very purpose. They came out with it because there were so many complaints of 5th wheels not fitting over the box. It includes new rear blocks that are I believe 1.5-2" shorter and new U bolts if memory serve me right.

 

I just put my Lance on, and it's perfectly level now!

 

I didnt know about Dodge doing that. It makes sense that they offer it. The rear of our trucks is ridculously in the air, there is a huge amount of wheelwell showing, and the truck tilts forward even more in a panic braking situation, which I would surmise tends to lock up the rear wheels even more easily than other pickups (which is easy to begin with).

When I get the garagemahal finished up in the net few weeks, the first project in it is gonna be getting those blocks out and on the band saw and milling machine. I was thinking about 1.5" as a first go.

Thanks for the responses guys.

Kp

 

I was walking thru the salvage yard,and noticed the 1500 4x4's had what looked like 2" blocks,and our 2500 4x4's have 4" blocks.Remember that these trucks were set up to pull,and when im hooked to my 34ft TT,the truck sits perfectly level once the bars are on and adjusted.You think a stocker sits nose low as delivered,try putting a blizzard 810 on the front of one,1000lbs hanging 6 ft in front of the front tires.

 

I've been looking at lowering the rear of my truck also and have come up with 2" lowering shackles. Belltech makes a set part number 6590 and Chassis Tech makes a set part number SHA-DO9402. These are supposed to fit 94-01 2500 or 3500. They should fit '02 also. The only problem I see so far is I will have to remove the overload spring stops or face a very rough ride. I plan on ordering mine within the next week. Jeff

 

What is the cost for something like this?

 

See link:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/02-001-01.htm

 

Did mine. Took the 5" block out and put a 2" back in w/new u-bolts.

 

What does the overload have to do with lowering the truck via less spacer? The overload is on top of the factory leaf springs,which do not change one bit in location,or operation.The axle is simply moved upward ,which will make the stops come into play sooner,if you stick with a block with them designed into it. Also dont forget the rear brake bias rod,if the brakes are to strong in the rear when your done,shorten the rod by the equal amount you lowered the truck.

 

He is talking about lowering SHACKLES , not blocks , BIG BIG difference. Myself i would go for shorter blocks , changing the shackles will screw up your pinion angle.

 

CLunk, that looks positively FABULOUS!!!! Exactly what a truck should look like. Nice Job. So you effectively dropped the back 3" ?


Kp