Thanks,
It didn't drop a full 3"...maybe 2.5" and I don't know why. I measured and it looked like the 3" drop would make it level but the rear is still .75" higher...maybe it'll settle more later. Other than the anti-sway bar changing position some and the shocks now working in the upper ranges like it's got a real load in it now...there were no changes rear suspension wise.
The front end doesn't feel as tight and feels a little lighter in the steering wheel, the center of gravity must have changed a little bit, had to adjust the seat a little, but I don't think the motor picked up over 40HP

 

Well a report back now that I did this. I took out the blocks and machined 1.5" off of the BOTTOM of the blocks. Since the material is gone from the bottom, there is no difference whatsover on bumpstop clearance. So the suspension has exactly the same amount of travel as before. I also checked the shocks and they wont bottom before the bumpstop hits. After cutting the blocks, I drilled a new hole on center and machined up new dowel pins on the lathe, to locate the bottom of the block to the axle perch, since cutting the bottom off of the blocks removes the pilot.


As Clunk correctly mentioned the only difference (besides the actual ride height of the back of the truck) is the shocks running a little more compressed. With 1.5" cut out the truck sits just ever so slightly raked and there is MUCH less wheelwell showing. The truck looks so much better I couldnt be more pleased. The factory high rear look, was so totally cheezy to me... It just screamed "Check out my Nova with the extended shackles in the back" look... . Now it looks like a proper ride.

I will post pics in the next few days.

All in all, a great way to spend about 3 hours.

Kp

 

Clunk and 600 Megawatts---how much did the " lowering " change the position of the driveshaft in the transmission housing and how much " travel " is left before the driveshaft bottoms out in the transmission ? Thanks for the info.

 

Good question and I'll get you a measurement when it warms up but I think it's in spec because a good ol' boy near me has a 24 valver/5 spd that he uses to pull his farm equipment via a gooseneck trailer and that boy loads his rig too. He'll stack hay rolls enough to have the rear of the truck much lower than mine. He'll load that trailer with tractors & equipment too.

 

I was very surprised that dropping it 1.5" only moved the driveshaft in .015". I was so surprised I used a jack to repeat the measurement 3 times. Since the transfer case is fairly far forward, small changes in anglularity had little penetration effect. And as for how much travel is left, it was just under 3/4", so thats a non-issue.


Kp

 

i guess if you want to look like a 2wd go ahead...but most people will spend a few $ for a leveling kit

 

No thanks. A higher center of gravity is not my thing. I like my truck with the shiny side up. I understand the physics involved with a lifted truck and dont care to operate one. Lifted trucks look good in magazines and off road, but they dont look so good in the ravine on the side of the highway, sitting on their side and with blood all over the dash and seats.....


Kp

 

It went right past you didn't it? I leveled mine without raising the frontend, my choice, my method, my look..period.

 

Great, great look. Has anyone (Dodge or aftermarket) come out with shorter blocks for an '07 3500 4x4 DRW? Wanna do everything I can to get more bed rail clearance for my 5'er and this is the only option left. Thanks for any input.

 

Since we're talking about loaded, often in the mountains, highway operation where safety is the #1 consideration, a large RV business like Stouts RV in Indiana can offer considerably better advice based on the experience of their vendors and many customers.
We really-really need to be sure the rig is safe.

 

Driving a lifted truck isn't that bad. Been driving one for years now as have many people. I've come to find out in my short years on this planet that what works on paper doesn't always translate to the real world. And trust me, with a leveling kit you won't even notice the difference in ride height. Either way, you did what suits you and I'm glad it worked for ya.

 

Kev, the effect on braking is minimal, as the weight transfer is going to be about the same. Certainly less of a factor than the improper brake proportioning.

I also would have preferred to lower the rear rather than raise the front, as I prefer the lower cg to help handling, and I don't really need more tire clearance.

In the end, lifting the front was easier for me. It actually handles BETTER with the front raised, but that's not from the height increase-- it's from the superior Bilsteins I installed when I did the work. Gotta love digressive valving!

JH

 

Clunk that is a SWEEEET looking truck!

I know my Dad would much prefer my truck sat lower. He has to get a running head start, since he's 5'8" and my front is levelled. No steps, either

 

Ok, so I am planning to do this when I redo my rear suspension... It sounds like you guys got it all figgured out. Question is...where can I get some shorted U-bolts? I was measuring on my truck and trying to develop an idea to do this before I even saw this thread, but I can't find shorted U bolts. Where did you guys get yours?

 

Autozone keeps them in stock..... just know your axle diameter......