greenworks

I have been chasing the hard start similar to what Hohn had reported a year ago, if the truck was cold it would crank for 5-6 seconds and fire, if the truck was running and stopped then started within 5 minutes it would fire right up. Fuel pressures where good, filter good all the usualy was good, I decided to adjust my valves being I am at that milage and I thought I might as well retourq the injector hold downs as I installed new injectors in nov 04, well some had backed out I retourqed to 89 in lbs and since have had no problems at all. Before when I bumped the lift pump after sitting for a while i could hear a high pitched whistle, which I know assume was air being pushed through either a leak in the injector tube or injector area (there where no leaks on injector tube entry to the head). Hope this helps anybody fighting this problem.Truck runs stronger again also.

Jason

Lil Dog

Glad to hear you got that figured out.

How about the wiring on the Comp box?? Did that fix your power problem as well??

greenworks

Ya it amazing what a disconnected wire on a comp box will do, sometimes I wish I had the simple features of the 12v, chasing electrical ground faults and replacing and testing sensor drives me mad

I still think alot of the low dyno number was not being fully loaded on the mustang , even if I was running great I would have probably been disappointed

Jason

HOHN

Well, maybe I need to tighten my injector hold downs-- AGAIN!


A few weeks ago, I did an injector R&R just to make sure I hadn't bent the crossover tubes or torn an O-ring. All the tubes were fine, and the O-Rings had no nicks in them.

Is 89-in-lbs the tq spec for the 8mm injector retainer bolts??? Apparently, my "goodntight" wasn't too accurate? I just snugged them with a stubby ratchet, as I am afraid of damaging something by overtightening. Then again, those injector retainers are beefy cast pieces, and I bet they are pretty tough to hurt!

When I first had the hard start problem, I tightened the hold-downs a little more and it didn't seem to help.

I'm thinking that I need to loosen the 19mm injector line nuts, THEN tighten down the injectors, and THEN retighten the 19mm line nuts.

Anyway, I'm going on 17 months of having this hard start problem. I park the truck downhill, it fires right up. If on level ground or uphill, the truck loses prime and takes some cranking to get it to fire.

I'm sure that I'm getting some combustion leakage because my fuel tank will sometimes pressurize. I can hear the vent hissing when I shut down. It doesn't do this all the time, but more often than not.

The funny part is that I can tell when the tank is being pressurized because my FP reads high. When the tank has no pressurization, it will idle at 17 and cruise around town at about 14-15psi. When the tank IS seeing pressure, the FP will go up to 20 at idle, and 17-18 cruising around town.

For the record, this problem appears to be ENTIRELY operator-induced. Before I started messing with the fuel system (and going to larger injectors) I NEVER had any such issue.

It's minor and annoying. I should just fix it already!

Justin

greenworks

yes that is spec, fixed me up right away, still going strong. I know the 89 in-lbs from a learning experince. I looked up the 99+ injector hold bolt torque in my haynes manual and it says 44 ft lbs...... so I snapped the bolt with just enough left to grab it and turn it out . Stupid haynes manual...... I now don't trust it as much as before. Cummins says 89 in-lbs as well as BD where I bought the injectors just remember out there INCH POUNDS!!!!!!

Jason

bulthisl

44 ft. lbs. is for the 12 valve motors.



: Eddie :

Lil Dog

Hohn,

I am wondering if one of the copper gaskets on the injectors got cracked or has a small piece of carbon in it. That seems alike a significant amount of leakage to be able to pressure up the tank.

I would be tempted to pull all the injectors, clean the head, and inspect the washers for contact. Maybe one of the injector bodies is out of round or has a bad surface on the washer???

I dunno, if tightening it once fixed it, it seems to me that one of the washers is not seeing a flat surface and is not getting full compression from the retaining bolts.

J-eh

tool

How do you change inch pounds to ft. lbs? divide by 12?

Shovelhead

yup

12 inch lbs = 1 foot lb

greenworks

I figured that after I snapped the bolt my book has a misprint in it

Jason

Shovelhead

Kinda like the old "Torque the oil pan drain plug to 60 ft/lb".

HOHN

UH OH!!!!!!

Please help! I snapped my little hold down screw! I didn't think I was overtorquing it (used a 3/8 ratchet for crying out loud).

I switched to a stubby 3/8th ratchet. I don't have a TQ wrench, so I'm trying to get by. I never felt it get soft (you know, like they do before they let go).

SO:

1) Where can I get a replacement screw ASAP?
2) How do I get the old one out? Can you drill it with an EZ-out? This thing broke off flush with the bolt hole. I've broken the Crapsman bolt extractors, so I don't trust them. What are my options?

Time is of the essence here.

Thanks,

Justin

Shovelhead

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952156000

I'd try one of these first.
If it hasn't bottomed out in the hole, you can probobly get it to back out with these reverse pitched drill bits.

As for the replacement screw.....try a Diesel Injection service shop nearby.

Oh,...and Sears also carries torque wrenches.

greenworks

HOHN it should come out with a pen magnet twisting even, you would have had to put it in a long way to jam it in the threads.Try a puch and tap it the proper way once it moves it should spin right out being it isn't seized Mine backed out really easy. I used a metric bolt I had in my bolt bin to replace it, and I will get a replacement from a dealer when I get a chance, it is equivalent to a grade 5 which is way overkill for 89 in lbs. I would suggest getting a small torque wrench they are cheap. Ya have to remember 89 ich ls = like 7 ft pounds doesn't take much to break the bolt.


Jason

HOHN

Thanks to all who gave me the pointers.

The local dealer actually had the bolts in stock, so I was able to get new parts same day (before weekend being the key).

As for getting the broken piece out, Green was right. I didn't even need a tool. I just pushed on it with my finger and there was enough friction to twist it out. I've NEVER had lower consequences for such a boneheaded mistake

Anyway, I just got the truck put back together (did it over lunch) and it runs really good.

I tightened the injector retainers with the crossover tube nuts loosened. Then I tightened the 19mm injector line nuts (where they go into the head) after the 8mm retainer bolts were snugged.

I used a stubby ratchet with a 4" length. This way, I'd have to apply 20lbs of force to the very end to get it up to 80 in-lb. I have to work hard to apply 20lb with just my hand twisting it (I'd have to lean on it). So I just tightened it as far as I could with hand strength only, and I think it should be really close to the 89in-lb mark. I picked up a spare 8mm retainer bolt just in case I'm dumb enough to break it again


How does it run? Well, things are looking good! First, was the noticeable change in fuel pressure. Before, it would idle at 17 and creep up to 19-20. Now it goes to 17 and stops cold- no creep. Same thing with cruise pressures-- they are lower (which is GOOD in this case). and right around 12-14 where I want them to be.

The final clue that things are fixed is that there's NO pressurization of the fuel tank (which I knew from the gauge). Before the tank vent would hiss upon shutdown, and now it's dead quiet.

Seeing as how this has been a PITA for me for over a year, I'm hoping that this fixed it, but I won't get my hopes up until it fires instantly with the nose uphill and less than half a tank.


I'll post a follow-up to this once I can confirm that it is or isn't fixed.

Justin