afc housing ?
#1
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afc housing ?
What do they mean when they say afc housing forward? Are they talking about the fuel plate sled forward or what? Does anyone have pictures. Also would it be a good idea to put 3k gov. springs on my truck? What kind of performance am I looking at? Hows the smoke with gov. springs also? I have a #0 fuel plate and waste gate pluged(which I think that it does nothing, but have been looking at that waste gate kit from bd). Thanks.
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I'd reccomend the 4k springs, especially if you have a 160/175 pumps, as they won't rev as high as the bigger pumps with the same GSK. Smoke will depend on where you position the AFC, and what your spring is inside.
#4
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the afc housing is what covers your fuel plate. It has four small bolts that hold it on. like stated above the mounting holes are slotted so you can slide it to help tune the truck.
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#9
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imo run a plate and afc tune the afc to your combination. why? so that you have less turbo lag and heat. These trucks love fuel but too much down low will cause them to basically bog which means your rollin the coal (its like steping on it and your turbo just cant light.)
if you have a 0 plate with the wastegate plugged (no point in waisting your money on a wastegate by the way as the stock turbo really isnt worth it) and you dont feel anything check for boost leaks n tell us how much boost your runing if you can. Do you have gauges? if not i recommend getting some. Not only will that help you better gain more knowlege of what your engine is doing but it helps us if you have a problem.
for your info if you dont have gauges a 0 plate by itself could net 1500 degrees in egt (not good as things begin to melt) On top of that you said you want to go to a 3 or 4 gsk. goin to either one means even more heat once you start moving out of the stock rpm range. Remember: 4 gsk needs valve springs but i recommend geting them even if you have the 3 gsk because you are able to go past 3200 rpm easily with enough fuel
if you have a 0 plate with the wastegate plugged (no point in waisting your money on a wastegate by the way as the stock turbo really isnt worth it) and you dont feel anything check for boost leaks n tell us how much boost your runing if you can. Do you have gauges? if not i recommend getting some. Not only will that help you better gain more knowlege of what your engine is doing but it helps us if you have a problem.
for your info if you dont have gauges a 0 plate by itself could net 1500 degrees in egt (not good as things begin to melt) On top of that you said you want to go to a 3 or 4 gsk. goin to either one means even more heat once you start moving out of the stock rpm range. Remember: 4 gsk needs valve springs but i recommend geting them even if you have the 3 gsk because you are able to go past 3200 rpm easily with enough fuel
#11
why do you need the spring kit? cant you just adjust the govener springs? or is that bad? just wondering? the truck i just bought before i owned it we adjusted the govener springs our self and could actually hit 5,000. is this the same as doing a spring kit, or what is the diff. thanks any info is great. im a new owner of a 12 valve!
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4k is really all ya ever want to see with a 12 valve i got this off one of the specs list:
The "governed speed" is the highest speed which produces useable power. Above the governed speed, engine power drops VERY quickly. Other interesting engine speeds:
* Destructive torsional harmonic resonance occurs at 4100 RPM
* Crank and rods fail at 5400 RPM (if you make it through 4100 RPM)
The "governed speed" is the highest speed which produces useable power. Above the governed speed, engine power drops VERY quickly. Other interesting engine speeds:
* Destructive torsional harmonic resonance occurs at 4100 RPM
* Crank and rods fail at 5400 RPM (if you make it through 4100 RPM)
#14
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Get a fluidamper, and let it rip. Cam change will help it go further into the rpm range.
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