No rubber parts , other wize I think that playing with the timing hasn't been done with the bio enough yet , most are moving to 15-16* with dino fuel but it would seem that with a higher centane that it could very from dino , also I've heard that bio would require larger injector holes , I've heard that the 370s have a spray pattern that matches marine pistons , and may lessen the effisency .
Just some ??? that I have .

 

Id mix in some kerosene or some diesel power treatment to try to thin it out a little and keep it from coking the injectors.
You might find the cetane lower on average and the need to back off a bit on timing, but who knows.. depends on the oil you use.
If you plan on using an external lift pump so you can have 2 systems and switch back and forth, Id look into a FASS or something strong with good filtration. on a budget, Id look into flojet and shuflo pumps that are rated for diesel fuel.. viton or whatever that other stuff was. Youll want to watch your fuel pressure as well as fuel temps just before the injection pump.

 

Are you using vegetable oil or biodiesel?

If you are preheating vegetable oil and running that as fuel the power upgrades will work against you because of cetane limitations.

If you are using a high quality biodiesel you are going to see performance improvements, but may have to play with the injector spacers a bit to bring the burn out away from the pistons a bit.

If you are using a bio blend, you are wasting your money. For some reason commercial bio blends are the worst of both worlds and tend to run low on cetane and like to "clean" the soft hoses a bit agressively.

As far as a performance transfer pump, you should not need one. If you do the best solution for a 12 valve is to obtain the version for the early mechanical injection C series 8.3. It produces significantly more volume than the 5.9 pump, and the overflow valve will handle any excessive volume.

 

Although I do not have quite the BOMBS you have, I have had no problems whatsoever running my WVO. I have no drop of power or torque, and my engine runs smoother and quiter. If you haven't already, you will need to install all the goodies before you run the stuff, or you will do damage to the engine. As well, there are others who will say that you will damage the engine just running the stuff. You decide.

 

Just out of curiosity, what WVO kit do you have to sell and why? What Bio kit are you going to buy?

 

That is quite a change. I would guess that there is something wrong with his system or filtering, because I have had no troubles whatsoever, either in power or engine problems. What is his set-up, how hot is his oil getting before injection?

 

The links are for prossesing used vegi oil and then using that as fuel , the links are not the system for using unprossesed vegi oil ,- none of those go int o your truck .

 

Well if you ever sell off your WVO kit I might be interested. Though I need to find a tank I can mount under the bed or in the deadspace in front of the rear wheels inside the bed. I tow bikes so I need the room, cant use a toolbox type tank. Anything I stick in the front of the box might get dented from the bike wheels too. How did you have that tank mounted? Straight across the bed or in front of the wheel?
I dont have anything to lose as far as injectors and pump go since those both need replacing anyhow. Will need to watch my engine oil for contamination though I think.

 

yeah I was looking at the link. That would be perfect for me if I could mount it someplce else... crap! I like the idea of being able to heat and filter on the go like that. Youd be able to collect and filter without having a home setup. I could replace that single tank with two smaller tanks on either side of the bed and Id probably be happy